NationStates Jolt Archive

Simple question, what do you drive and why?

I own 3 cars.

I have a 07 Civic SI, which is what I drive day to day.

Sometimes you'll me driving around in a Mint 95 Thunderbird V8 ( which is currently producing 251RWHP ) that has been modified.

Sometimes I bust out my classic 88 Volvo 740 Turbo.

You can also find me racing a 11 Second car at a Drag strip near Pittsburgh.

A 2000 Saturn SC1.

Why? It was cheap (right at $2,000), it's got enough room, I can race it if I want to, and best of all, it gets 50 miles per gallon on the highway (about 43 in the city). It's blue, though the paint's got quite a few scratches on it from rocks, tree limbs, and cats.

I drive a 2001 Limited Edition Chrysler PT Cruiser. A nice long name for a gas guzzler, wouldn't you agree? I want my boyfriend's car, he has a Geo Metro.

An old racer bike, sometimes.

he has a Geo Metro.

This man has his shit together.

I drive a 2001 Limited Edition Chrysler PT Cruiser. A nice long name for a gas guzzler, wouldn't you agree? I want my boyfriend's car, he has a Geo Metro.

It doesn't have to be you know. My big 4.6 Liter Thunderbird with a full exhaust, mild cam and air intake gets 33 on the highway if I leave it at 65mph and put it in cruise.

1996 Acura Integra that has seen better days. :p

1995 Dodge Neon

Why? Cause it was free and it still runs, that's why.

Nothin'. My car had a fit this week, and the electrical's gone. According to the mechanic, the "fusable links" are all fried, as well as the battery and a bunch of other things. I'll probably end up buying a new one if the estimate is greater than the price of the car ($800). That's likely.

Following the unfortunate events of last May, this (http://www.biofuels-news.com/images/news/brisbane_bus.jpg).

Following the unfortunate events of last May, this (http://www.biofuels-news.com/images/news/brisbane_bus.jpg).

What happened?

Following the unfortunate events of last May, this (http://www.biofuels-news.com/images/news/brisbane_bus.jpg).

Ouch. I'd rather kill myself then use public transit.

It doesn't have to be you know. My big 4.6 Liter Thunderbird with a full exhaust, mild cam and air intake gets 33 on the highway if I leave it at 65mph and put it in cruise.

...and you drive only on the freeway for that whole tank. Cruising is always better on mileage, and that's why the (US)EPA estimates for freeway mileage are usually the higher of the two numbers. What do you get when you can't use cruise control and are driving around town?

1996 Acura Integra that has seen better days. :p

I had a 1991 Integra RS. Base model. Loved that car. Had it from 1998 to 2006, and drove the wheels off it. Regularly got 27+ mpg no matter where I drove and on long freeway trips, 35+. Handled like it was on rails.

2007 E class for the most part. I also have a integra that I run around with.

Ouch. I'd rather kill myself then use public transit.

Y'know, you can just say you'd rather not use public transit. Otherwise, if you're ever forced on a bus for whatever reason, some wag from NSG will wonder why you're not dead.

Seriously, the quality of transit depends on the mode, availability and schedule. If all three are good, I'll take the bus. I got more reading done by driving six miles to the park-and-ride and letting Metro take me the last 25 to UW. Saved me lots of gas and given that the buses use the HOV lanes, lots of time.

We all get that you love your cars. Good for you. Some of us can love transit.

What happened?
This (http://forums.jolt.co.uk/showthread.php?t=557358), resulting in this (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/Leonstein/car/1.jpg). :(

Ouch. I'd rather kill myself then use public transit.
Rather extreme, no?

I quite like the bus; gives me time to stare out the window and read. Driving seems too much stress.

...and you drive only on the freeway for that whole tank. Cruising is always better on mileage, and that's why the (US)EPA estimates for freeway mileage are usually the higher of the two numbers. What do you get when you can't use cruise control and are driving around town?




Yeah....about 12.

Ouch. I'd rather kill myself then use public transit.

That's quite an American sentiment.

1998 Pontiac Grand Prix. It runs and gets decent gas mileage. Most problems have been fixed recently (brakes, broken power window motor, tires, oil), so it's been a beauty to drive.

That's quite an American sentiment.So was/is bigotry and ignorance, not necessarily directly related.

A 2001 Ford Windstar SE Sport.

Yeah, it's my mom and dad's. We kinda need a vehicle of that size with six people in the house.

In Japan, a '98 Toyota Starlet that I'm starting to think about replacing due to costs.

In America, a '02 Mitsubishi Galant... assuming my mother hasn't done something to it without telling me.

That's quite an American sentiment.

Right. Because all Americans hate public transit

Where I live it has no place.

I'm an avid mountain biker, so I ride this
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/8361/nev14pk8.jpg
and
this
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/4149/ttc4178alb4.jpg

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5674/mybabybu5.jpg
1967 VW Bus Westfalia SO42. Her name is Veronica.

I'm an avid mountain biker, so I ride this
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/8361/nev14pk8.jpg
and
this
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/4149/ttc4178alb4.jpg

I have a bike Ive ridden to work at well ( about 20 miles, which SUCKS in PA ).

Its a SX2000.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/517E3E3SQVL._SS260_.jpg

I do not know much about it. Other than the fact that I bought it 2 years ago and it wont shift into higher gear in the rear unless you jump it pretty hard.

And the rear brakes dont work :)

It also likes to slip gears all the time.

Cetoan, I want a Bus so badly. Well, with a newer, more efficient engine so I save on gas, at least.

Oh, and I usually either ride a bike or walk to work.

Cetoan, I want a Bus so badly. Well, with a newer, more efficient engine so I save on gas, at least.

Oh, and I usually either ride a bike or walk to work.

The stock single port 1600 gets around 30 mpg, more if you opt for the bug transmission (but that lowers the stance of the bus). And they're awesome...though if you drive one in San Francisco or Santa Cruz you're kind of a rolling tourist attraction...

The stock single port 1600 gets around 30 mpg, more if you opt for the bug transmission (but that lowers the stance of the bus). And they're awesome...though if you drive one in San Francisco or Santa Cruz you're kind of a rolling tourist attraction...

30mpg isn't bad, man. I'd still go for a newer, better, more efficient engine even so. While 30 is good, 50+ is so much better. And it'd be all the sweeter if I could get a pure ethanol or biodiesel engine for it.

And hey, the bus being a rolling tourist attraction would be considered a bonus with me.

currently, red 98 pontiac grand am. As of August or September? with any luck an 09 Ford Focus.

currently, red 98 pontiac grand am. As of August or September? with any luck an 09 Ford Focus.

Good idea, those 3400 and 3100 engines are time bombs

Well, I drive a '96 Hyundai Accent, thats, unfortunately seen better days, but, at Twelve Years old and still getting me from A to B, it was definitely a quality vehicle...

Good idea, those 3400 and 3100 engines are time bombs

haha...hardly my biggest concern. The throttle cable already shredded. Now we're on to breaks (though, mostly fixed), transmission (trouble going in to first gear), the back bumper damage thanks to a tow truck, and low gas mileage.

I drive my children crazy.

I own a 1990 BMW 750iL, It's black, and it's powered by a 5.0L V12. I also own a 1990 735i. I love these cars, despite the fact that they're expensive as hell to maintain.

I was hoping to buy an 850i this year, but that's starting to look unlikely, so maybe I'll settle for a Mercedes-Benz 560SEL or something.

German cars are awesome.

Simple question, what do you drive and why?

I drive a 1990 VW Polo (33kW) - but I use the public transportation to go to work.

Today is my car's 18th birthday! Have some cake! Happy birthday VW Polo, happy birthday to yoooo!

If I got a dollar every time East Coast Federation mentions he has three cars, I'd be able to buy them off him by now.

Simple question, what do you drive and why?

I "drive" a bicycle. Because it keeps me fit, it's cheap and has a low environmental impact.

trainz on computerz. because carz are crap.

=^^=
.../\...

Currently public transport, my old car (Vauxhall/Opel Vectra) decided to break three expensive times within two weeks, and the last one is just too much to actually bother with the repair.

Means I'm currently looking for a new car - and considering my family is friendly with the local dealership I should be able to get a good price on a nearly-new deisel Astra.

I ride on a giant spider... :D

My car is in the garage today. They've given me a 1.3 Ford Ka. It's the worst car I've ever driven :/

I ride on a giant spider... :D

Would that be real or a mechanical steam-powered beastie...

Currently a 97 Camry with like 250K miles on it.

I got it cheap from a teenager who didn't want to drive her parent's old car. It has a new engine in it that had only 3K miles on it.

Nothing, never learned to drive. I mainly walk or use taxis, or for longer trips trains. Have used boats and planes but not for a long time as I am afraid of flying. Never use buses as they are the very spawn of Beelzebub.

'91 Chevy Blazer...feel the thunder!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/DrkHelmet/tempalbum/Camaro1.jpg

Why? Because it's my job.

If I got a dollar every time East Coast Federation mentions he has three cars, I'd be able to buy them off him by now.

And did you know one of them is a ten second drag strip car?
Yeah, he could save time and just make it his sig...

I drive a '99 Mazda MX-5. I bought it because I used to own a 2001 Jeep Wrangler (I moved from Colorado to Sault Sainte Marie, Michigan and snow is bad on the Mini Cooper I had at the time) but I saw the writing on the wall about gas prices in 2006 so I traded it for my Miata. I'm glad I did it when I did because there is no way I could have bought my Miata for what I did or got what I did for my Jeep.

I do not know much about it. Other than the fact that I bought it 2 years ago and it wont shift into higher gear in the rear unless you jump it pretty hard.

And the rear brakes dont work :)

It also likes to slip gears all the time.

The problem with your higher gear is your rear derailleur. There should be too small Philips screws on it somewhere, usually they have a little L and H beside them. You should loosen the appropriate one a little bit at a time until you have the gear action you want.

Your chain may be loose, causing the gears to slip. This is common with bike that have that a lever and clamp system for attaching the rear wheel rather than lug nuts. Or it could also be your derailleur. Take it to a bike mechanic and pay the 40$.

If I got a dollar every time East Coast Federation mentions he has three cars, I'd be able to buy them off him by now.

I'd buy a recumbent trike with full fairings with that kind of money.

https://www.terratrike.com/shop/accessories/comfort/fairing/prod_35.html

The problem with your higher gear is your rear derailleur. There should be too small Philips screws on it somewhere, usually they have a little L and H beside them. You should loosen the appropriate one a little bit at a time until you have the gear action you want.

Your chain may be loose, causing the gears to slip. This is common with bike that have that a lever and clamp system for attaching the rear wheel rather than lug nuts. Or it could also be your derailleur. Take it to a bike mechanic and pay the 40$.


https://www.terratrike.com/shop/accessories/comfort/fairing/prod_35.html

Hmm. Well it already went through a rear wheel bearing ( I ride the piss out of this thing )

Haha, the gear action I want is the gears working in general, on the right shifter you can shove it down into 7 and it wont go past 3 unless you hit some nasty bumps while peddling hard. Normally it would not really bother me, but when I want to build up speed going down some big hills it really becomes a issue. It also likes to skip gears.

Chain is actually really tight. I would think for 240 dollars it'd be somewhat decent.

I think the rear brake problem can be sloved by simply replacing the rear brakes. As theres almost no pad left.

Hmm. Well it already went through a rear wheel bearing ( I ride the piss out of this thing )

Haha, the gear action I want is the gears working in general, on the right shifter you can shove it down into 7 and it wont go past 3 unless you hit some nasty bumps while peddling hard. Normally it would not really bother me, but when I want to build up speed going down some big hills it really becomes a issue. It also likes to skip gears.

Chain is actually really tight. I would think for 240 dollars it'd be somewhat decent.

I think the rear brake problem can be sloved by simply replacing the rear brakes. As theres almost no pad left.

Do you have indexed or friction shifting?

I walk, mostly. Cheap and healthy, and I don't have to worry about punctured tires (one of the reasons I don't bother with a bike at the moment). For longer trips (to other towns) I'll take a train or bus.

Do you have indexed or friction shifting?

All it says is " Shimano shifting " on it.

The problem with your higher gear is your rear derailleur. There should be too small Philips screws on it somewhere, usually they have a little L and H beside them. You should loosen the appropriate one a little bit at a time until you have the gear action you want.

This is true. However, despite having done it dozens of times, I still don't know which one is considered "High" and which "Low."

So I just jam the gear selector up to the end of the range where the lazy gear is, and when I loosen one of those screws the tension in the gear cable is enough to make it move towards the lazy sprocket wheel.

I should add though, that if the derallieur has been fitted with the wrong offset the lazy gear might be out of its reach no matter the adjustment of the two little screws. It's quite an easy thing to overlook when the back sprockets are changed (eg a replacement back wheel.)

Your chain may be loose, causing the gears to slip. This is common with bike that have that a lever and clamp system for attaching the rear wheel rather than lug nuts. Or it could also be your derailleur. Take it to a bike mechanic and pay the 40$.

Old chains stretch too. A new chain is a worthwhile investment from time to time, to protect the sprockets. The slippage wears them and they cost more than a chain.


I'd buy a recumbent trike with full fairings with that kind of money.

Eeek! Death-trap!
About the only safe thing about a bicycle on the public road is that you are up high and have a chance to jump/roll over the top of/at least only lose your legs to a car. Get all your vital organs down below bonnet-level? You'd have to be mad.

Oh, it's sure cute. But strictly for parades.

Do you have indexed or friction shifting?

I have reported this post to moderation.

Take your NC-17 filth elsewhere and learn to exercise some judgement in what you post.

My children need to learn about sex from the bible and disney movies, not your sick dirty intersmut!

I drive a 98 Ford Taurus. It gets pretty good gas mileage. I just recently purchased a bike, so that has cut down majorly on my driving. And I'm outside, getting sun, and exercising. :D

I walk, mostly. Cheap and healthy, and I don't have to worry about punctured tires (one of the reasons I don't bother with a bike at the moment).

Heh, I had a bad puncture recently and had to walk a lot until I got around to buying a new tube. I couldn't believe how damn long it took to walk the same places I usually ride, it really tested my patience. It's like meditation, nothing happens for a fucking long time and you just try to accept that.

As to the punctures, I don't understand why we don't use solid tyres. There are strong light foams which could surely replace a pressurized tube. Small localized damage would eventually write it off, but at least each puncture event wouldn't be catastrophic failure of the whole tire.

All it says is " Shimano shifting " on it.

When you shift gears, do you slide a lever over smoothly, or do you click one little lever to shift up, and another to shift down?

This is true. However, despite having done it dozens of times, I still don't know which one is considered "High" and which "Low."

So I just jam the gear selector up to the end of the range where the lazy gear is, and when I loosen one of those screws the tension in the gear cable is enough to make it move towards the lazy sprocket wheel.

I know exactly what you mean. You can usually see the arm of the derailleur move when you're turning the right one. I got into the habit of counting the turns, so that if I trun the wrong one, I can unturn it the same number.

I should add though, that if the derallieur has been fitted with the wrong offset the lazy gear might be out of its reach no matter the adjustment of the two little screws. It's quite an easy thing to overlook when the back sprockets are changed (eg a replacement back wheel.)

That could be it. He spoke of having some changes to his rear wheel.

Old chains stretch too. A new chain is a worthwhile investment from time to time, to protect the sprockets. The slippage wears them and they cost more than a chain.

I can buy a new cassette for 15$. A chain is 20$. I tend to replace them at the same time. That way they wear together.

Eeek! Death-trap!
About the only safe thing about a bicycle on the public road is that you are up high and have a chance to jump/roll over the top of/at least only lose your legs to a car. Get all your vital organs down below bonnet-level? You'd have to be mad.

Oh, it's sure cute. But strictly for parades.

We have a closed racetrack on one of the islands in the river that gets used once a year for Indy car racing. The rest of the time, it's reserved for bike racing. I just want to see how fast I can go on level ground with no wind. And that would be the the perfect tool.

When you shift gears, do you slide a lever over smoothly, or do you click one little lever to shift up, and another to shift down?

Okay, you putrid little perv, thats it!

I have composed a stern letter of complaint, and as soon as I have recovered from the polluting imagery and relaxed the resulting stiffness, I shall mail it to whomever regulates the internet!

Heh, I had a bad puncture recently and had to walk a lot until I got around to buying a new tube. I couldn't believe how damn long it took to walk the same places I usually ride, it really tested my patience. It's like meditation, nothing happens for a fucking long time and you just try to accept that.I usually have enough on my mind not to really notice. Walking and thinking goes well together.
It's annoying when the weather's too hot though; or when it rains and it's windy (which makes operating an umbrella kind of hazardous to both the umbrella and your sanity).

As to the punctures, I don't understand why we don't use solid tyres. There are strong light foams which could surely replace a pressurized tube. Small localized damage would eventually write it off, but at least each puncture event wouldn't be catastrophic failure of the whole tire.There are some good puncture-resistant tires these days. But I don't really have the money to buy a new bike and spiffy new puncture-resistant tires at the moment.

I drive a motherf***ing pink Cadillac!



Why? Caus I'm a ******! lolololol


Nah I drive a 1984 Holden Jackaroo (That's an Australian 4WD, Holden = GM)

I like to run over stuff. Sometimes I go letterboxing which is when I run over as many letterboxes as I can.

I also run over garbage bins, small trees, small fences and those sticks with the reflecter things on them that you see on the roadside. Once I took out 50 in a single night hahah, that shit was epic.

Oh I also like to intimidae smaller cars, especially woman drivers on lonley streches of road. First follow them for a while, then I speed up so im right on their tail, then I pull back and speed up again, after a while start flashing my headlights. Thats when they start to get nervous, they normally speed up. I keep on their tail, flashing my headlights. Then I start using the horn and signaling for them to pull over. If they dont speed off at this point I try to get along side them. WHen I do, I slowly force them to the edge of the road so they are eventually forced to stop. I pull up behind them

They lock their doors and normally get on their mobile. At this point I get out, making sure I'm standing in front of my headlights, I approach the car

That's when the real fun begins, but thats for another day :)

When you shift gears, do you slide a lever over smoothly, or do you click one little lever to shift up, and another to shift down?



I know exactly what you mean. You can usually see the arm of the derailleur move when you're turning the right one. I got into the habit of counting the turns, so that if I trun the wrong one, I can unturn it the same number.



That could be it. He spoke of having some changes to his rear wheel.



Its a thingy that clicks thats built into the handle bars.

Right Side=1-3 ( low high higher )
Left Side- 1-7.

A 1989 Mazda 323
Still going good, with good milage

Its a thingy that clicks thats built into the handle bars.

Right Side=1-3 ( low high higher )
Left Side- 1-7.

Then you have indexed shifting. On a $240 bike, that would mean you have the crappiest gears on the planet. People driving thirty year old ten speeds with the original gears are using better tech than you. I would get rid of the entire gears system and replace it with friction gears. Most of your problems should go away.

I drive a 87 Nova that should be in the scrapyard.

It can't go over 45 mph and the motor sometimes stops when I am driving.

I drive a 87 Nova that should be in the scrapyard.

It can't go over 45 mph and the motor sometimes stops when I am driving.

No Va, I believe that means no go in Spanish. The reason, I understand, that most Mexicans won't have one.

The problem with your higher gear is your rear derailleur. There should be too small Philips screws on it somewhere, usually they have a little L and H beside them. You should loosen the appropriate one a little bit at a time until you have the gear action you want.

Your chain may be loose, causing the gears to slip. This is common with bike that have that a lever and clamp system for attaching the rear wheel rather than lug nuts. Or it could also be your derailleur. Take it to a bike mechanic and pay the 40$.

G-o-g, I tried to TG you with this question, but was unable to find you with NS's search function. So I'll post it here.

I haven't bought a bike since the days when I'd be happy with anything so long as it worked. Now that I can afford one, I'd like some help deciding what kind. I know I don't want a full-on mountain bike, as the riding resistance of the tires on pavement makes me feel like I'm doing way too much work for not enough speed.

I'm not sure about a 100% road bike, either, as it's been 20 years since I rode a set of ram-horn handlebars and I'm not sure how my back would hold up. I know there are handlebar additions and the like, but researching bikes and accessories is really bewildering.

When I was in Summit County, Colorado last month, I rented what they called a "cruiser" or a "path bike", which was handlebarred like a mountain bike but had narrow tires with only a mild tread on them. I was ambivalent about the bike, as it rode decently, but I didn't get the speed I remembered from my youth. Admittedly I was skinnier and didn't weigh 200 pounds, but still.

So I ask you, who appears to be very knowledgeable about bikes, which of the hybrids or road bikes should I look into? I don't want to spend a ridiculous amount, but I know you get what you pay for, so I'm willing to pony up for quality -- just not insanely so. I plan to ride mostly on streets or paths with some potential light trail stuff thrown in if I can find a bike that will perform well in all those areas. My state isn't as bike-friendly as Colorado, so there's not a lot of dedicated lanes and whatnot, and I figure racing tired might be too fragile for things like potholes.

Any suggestions? I'm really weary from my in-person and internet research, and I'm looking for some help at least narrowing down the options and getting perhaps a few brand names.

Thanks in advance.

I drive a motherf***ing pink Cadillac!



Why? Caus I'm a ******! lolololol


Nah I drive a 1984 Holden Jackaroo (That's an Australian 4WD, Holden = GM)

I like to run over stuff. Sometimes I go letterboxing which is when I run over as many letterboxes as I can.

I also run over garbage bins, small trees, small fences and those sticks with the reflecter things on them that you see on the roadside. Once I took out 50 in a single night hahah, that shit was epic.

Oh I also like to intimidae smaller cars, especially woman drivers on lonley streches of road. First follow them for a while, then I speed up so im right on their tail, then I pull back and speed up again, after a while start flashing my headlights. Thats when they start to get nervous, they normally speed up. I keep on their tail, flashing my headlights. Then I start using the horn and signaling for them to pull over. If they dont speed off at this point I try to get along side them. WHen I do, I slowly force them to the edge of the road so they are eventually forced to stop. I pull up behind them

They lock their doors and normally get on their mobile. At this point I get out, making sure I'm standing in front of my headlights, I approach the car

That's when the real fun begins, but thats for another day :)

What the hell...

What the hell...

Dumb, racist troll is dumb and racist. Ignore cannons at full charge.

I met this guy in II who had a Austin/Morris Marina. Look that up.

Personally... I can't drive. But if I could I would either have a Nissan Nismo Z or a Cadillac CTS-V.

Dumb, racist troll is dumb and racist. Ignore cannons at full charge.

Yeah, I just read his posts in the Ownage thread.

Some people...

G-o-g, I tried to TG you with this question, but was unable to find you with NS's search function....Thanks in advance.

My nation died a long time ago, so I don't get telegrams.

I would suggest a hybrid bike. Trek makes a really good one for that sold for about 500$ a few years ago. Sturdy, comfortable and fast, though I wouldn't ride it in inclement weather. Norco also makes a decent one which is somewhat more rugged.

I would suggest going to a bike store and asking to take the bikes for a test drive. They always let me, but I tend to go with someone who waits while I test it.

A lot depends on what you like. Most people go for aluminum frames for the weight, but I like steel. They're more comfortable and I tend to put my bikes through the grinder. My current commuter is an old peugeout racing frame with 700x30 wheels and really tall handle bars. This makes for a slow and smooth ride on a light but sturdy bike.

My nation died a long time ago, so I don't get telegrams.

I would suggest a hybrid bike. Trek makes a really good one for that sold for about 500$ a few years ago. Sturdy, comfortable and fast, though I wouldn't ride it in inclement weather. Norco also makes a decent one which is somewhat more rugged.

I would suggest going to a bike store and asking to take the bikes for a test drive. They always let me, but I tend to go with someone who waits while I test it.

A lot depends on what you like. Most people go for aluminum frames for the weight, but I like steel. They're more comfortable and I tend to put my bikes through the grinder. My current commuter is an old peugeout racing frame with 700x30 wheels and really tall handle bars. This makes for a slow and smooth ride on a light but sturdy bike.

Thank you very much! What about inclement weather, though? I'll be living in Spokane, WA. Not a lot of rain, but cold in winter with some snow.

I don't, because I can't.

Thank you very much! What about inclement weather, though? I'll be living in Spokane, WA. Not a lot of rain, but cold in winter with some snow.

Are you going to be riding in wet weather?

If so, I suggest mud guards, pedals that grip well but allow you to take your foot off easily, and proper tires. I used studded tires my first winter, but we get a lot of snow. Look for tires that are designed to push water to the side of the tire (with v-shaped grooves, usually) so that you don't lose traction when cornering. I have some trouble cornering at high speeds in the wet with my commuter because of my puncture resistant tires. Aluminum rims are better than steel rims for stopping, but they've become standard so I doubt you'll end up with steel rims anyway. Or you can have something that has disc brakes, like motorcycles and higher end mountain bikes. In wet weather, the danger is in the loss of traction between you and the road, and the brakes and the wheel. Anyting that improves this traction improves your safety.

And wear a baseball cap to keep the rain out of your eyes.

1997 Toyota Camry

However, when I move onto campus I'm either going to take the campus bus system or walk everywhere except when I go home for a weekend or go somewhere off system that the campus bus system doesn't go to (it does go to the mall and some other stores, I think)

1993 Nissan Sentra. It cost me $800.00, runs reliably, air blows ice cold and gets 35mpg. What more can I ask?

Sporty, useful, reliable, relatively cheap:

A 2001 1.8 liter turbo golf

http://www.edmunds.com/media/news/column/letterstotheediors/02.feb/00.vw.golf..f3-4.500.jpg

$7,500 after I traded in my old mercury (which had a lot of problems the dealer didn't know about). I'm still paying it off, almost there though.

Then you have indexed shifting. On a $240 bike, that would mean you have the crappiest gears on the planet. People driving thirty year old ten speeds with the original gears are using better tech than you. I would get rid of the entire gears system and replace it with friction gears. Most of your problems should go away.

Idk, that sounds like it costs money. Is there anyway to like fix the whole not shifting thing and the fact that it slips inbetween gears?

Simple question, what do you drive and why?

I own 3 cars.

I have a 07 Civic SI, which is what I drive day to day.

Sometimes you'll me driving around in a Mint 95 Thunderbird V8 ( which is currently producing 251RWHP ) that has been modified.

Sometimes I bust out my classic 88 Volvo 740 Turbo.

You can also find me racing a 11 Second car at a Drag strip near Pittsburgh.

I drive a 2003 Chevy Silverado. I'm a GM fan (been driving them ever since I got my license), as well as a truck fan, so buying a Silverado was a logical choice. The only non-GM vehicle I think I'd considering owning is a Jeep CJ-8. I don't know what it is, but there's something about the Scrambler that makes me want one. I also wouldn't mind buying a surplus postal LLV (although there's a lot I'd love to change on it), but that's made by GM and Grumman.

2006 Toyota Camry Hybrid

I like it, good gas mileage, with todays prices, it was well worth the costs.

I drive a motherf***ing pink Cadillac!



Why? Caus I'm a ******! lolololol


Nah I drive a 1984 Holden Jackaroo (That's an Australian 4WD, Holden = GM)

I like to run over stuff. Sometimes I go letterboxing which is when I run over as many letterboxes as I can.

I also run over garbage bins, small trees, small fences and those sticks with the reflecter things on them that you see on the roadside. Once I took out 50 in a single night hahah, that shit was epic.

Oh I also like to intimidae smaller cars, especially woman drivers on lonley streches of road. First follow them for a while, then I speed up so im right on their tail, then I pull back and speed up again, after a while start flashing my headlights. Thats when they start to get nervous, they normally speed up. I keep on their tail, flashing my headlights. Then I start using the horn and signaling for them to pull over. If they dont speed off at this point I try to get along side them. WHen I do, I slowly force them to the edge of the road so they are eventually forced to stop. I pull up behind them

They lock their doors and normally get on their mobile. At this point I get out, making sure I'm standing in front of my headlights, I approach the car

That's when the real fun begins, but thats for another day :)

http://jadn.com/~bob/audio/sadstrange.wav

Honestly, that's not funny in the slightest. :rolleyes:

1996 Nissan Serena FX with a SR20DE engine running through a RE4R01A 4spd auto trans and a R200V shortnose Diff with a 4.363:1 VLSD

1985 Toyota Hilux Surf SR with a 3Y-J engine running through a G52 5 speed manual with RF1A transfer case and final drive via a G252 4.56:1 ratio front and rear diffs solid front axle, no IFS for me :D.

I also have a 1978 280z Fairlady with no motor I am planning on dropping a twin turbo V8 into :D

I have a 88 Mazda 626, a 95 Toyota Camry and a 73 Chevy Pick Up available to me but I usually 'drive' a 2003 Bianchi Veloce
http://bp3.blogger.com/_hQJ9_vozNaM/Rxa31LEDN6I/AAAAAAAAA5E/X6kenslMWU8/s320/IMG_0100
I usually use it to commute or run errands
but I also have a '06 Scattante CFR
http://away.com/gear/gearguy/images/20060710.jpg
that I use for group rides and events
and a '01 Jamis Nova cylocross bike
http://www.quadcycles.com/products/assets/01_jamis_novaL.jpg
that I've upgraded the components on and outfitted with a rack, panniers, fenders and a bar bag for winter riding.

Pretty much the only time I burn gas these days is when the trip is over 50 miles or if I'm not traveling alone.

Idk, that sounds like it costs money. Is there anyway to like fix the whole not shifting thing and the fact that it slips inbetween gears?

Hmm. What I would do is find a good, old, bike. Take the gears off that bike, including the levers on the handlebars or frame, and put them on your new bike. But I like old school bikes and I can do all my own mechanical work.

If you want to fix your indexed shifting, take it into a shop. I can't see it costing more than 40$. That's like a quarter tank of gas for you, isn't it? Or you can spend a little more money and switch up to a better gear system that works well with your back wheel.

That might cost you up to 80$ or 100$. Translate that using gas prices and gas mileage, and you can figure out how many miles you would have to cover before it paid for itself.

Hmm. What I would do is find a good, old, bike. Take the gears off that bike, including the levers on the handlebars or frame, and put them on your new bike. But I like old school bikes and I can do all my own mechanical work.

If you want to fix your indexed shifting, take it into a shop. I can't see it costing more than 40$. That's like a quarter tank of gas for you, isn't it? Or you can spend a little more money and switch up to a better gear system that works well with your back wheel.

That might cost you up to 80$ or 100$. Translate that using gas prices and gas mileage, and you can figure out how many miles you would have to cover before it paid for itself.

Oh I'm good at taking this apart, I restored my Volvo to mint factory condition, including rebuilding the engine.

What is the difference between Index and friction shifting exactly? And why is friction better?

2007 BMW X5 3.0si. :)

2007 Suzuki Forenza

Simple question, what do you drive and why?

I own 3 cars.

I have a 07 Civic SI, which is what I drive day to day.

Sometimes you'll me driving around in a Mint 95 Thunderbird V8 ( which is currently producing 251RWHP ) that has been modified.

Sometimes I bust out my classic 88 Volvo 740 Turbo.

You can also find me racing a 11 Second car at a Drag strip near Pittsburgh.

:hail: Mercedes C230 Kompressor Sport (It's a 1999 model and I've had it from new and couldn't bear to get rid of it), and a 2007 Jaguar S-Type, 2.7 TurboDiesel

2003 VW T4 888 Spec X Edition, only one in UK with c/bumbers from new! I love it!

Oh I'm good at taking this apart, I restored my Volvo to mint factory condition, including rebuilding the engine.

What is the difference between Index and friction shifting exactly? And why is friction better?

The gears work on the principle that you pull or release a wire, which then pulls the little arm on your derailleur into the right position to shift your gears. So, by lengthening and shortening the wire, you can shift gears.

Indexed shifting has a specific length of wire for each gear. To go up a gear, the wire is pulled a certain fixed amount, to go down, you release it a certain fixed amount. Most new bikes have this system.

Friction shifting is all done on one continuous spectrum. To go up a gear, you pull a lever that shortens the wire, but the amount of shortening depends on how much you pull the lever. This means you have a much finer amount of control over the position of your derailleur arm. Most older bikes have this system.

Now, indexed shifting is easier to use, as you don't have to adjust a little lever to the exact position you need, as it goes there automatically. But it only works well when the wire is just the right length for each gear. Since the cables are usually made of steel, they tend to expand contract with heat. If you live in Southern California, this doesn't matter. If you live somewhere where the temperature actually changes, this presents problems.

I use friction shifting exclusively. It's much easier to fix and maintain. It breaks down a lot less, and once you get used to the bike, finding the exact right position becomes second nature.

The gears work on the principle that you pull or release a wire, which then pulls the little arm on your derailleur into the right position to shift your gears. So, by lengthening and shortening the wire, you can shift gears.

Indexed shifting has a specific length of wire for each gear. To go up a gear, the wire is pulled a certain fixed amount, to go down, you release it a certain fixed amount. Most new bikes have this system.

Friction shifting is all done on one continuous spectrum. To go up a gear, you pull a lever that shortens the wire, but the amount of shortening depends on how much you pull the lever. This means you have a much finer amount of control over the position of your derailleur arm. Most older bikes have this system.

Now, indexed shifting is easier to use, as you don't have to adjust a little lever to the exact position you need, as it goes there automatically. But it only works well when the wire is just the right length for each gear. Since the cables are usually made of steel, they tend to expand contract with heat. If you live in Southern California, this doesn't matter. If you live somewhere where the temperature actually changes, this presents problems.

I use friction shifting exclusively. It's much easier to fix and maintain. It breaks down a lot less, and once you get used to the bike, finding the exact right position becomes second nature.


I live in Pittsburgh, and I do ride it year round. ( I even have snow tires for the damn thing ), some days I feel like riding 40 miles round trip to work, even in the snow.

Is there any kind of cable I can get that wont expand and contract?

Incidentally, ECF? Here's a Web site for a magazine started by a rabid car enthusiast named Ron Cogan. Check it out:

http://www.greencar.com/aboutus/

His stance is that "fun to drive" and "environmentally sustainable" aren't mutually exclusive.

And G-o-g, I agree on your shifter/derailleur position. My old bikes were easy to get used to once you knew where the sweet spots were.

I live in Pittsburgh, and I do ride it year round. ( I even have snow tires for the damn thing ), some days I feel like riding 40 miles round trip to work, even in the snow.

Is there any kind of cable I can get that wont expand and contract?

If you want to go in that direction, you can go for hydraulic 'cables'. Instead of ametal cable, you have a tube full of oil. By squeezing the brake lever, you pump the oil into a drum which pushes the pad against the disc brake. Do you have disc brakes?

Or you can do what I do: ride a singlespeed in the winter.

The gears work on the principle that you pull or release a wire, which then pulls the little arm on your derailleur into the right position to shift your gears. So, by lengthening and shortening the wire, you can shift gears.

Indexed shifting has a specific length of wire for each gear. To go up a gear, the wire is pulled a certain fixed amount, to go down, you release it a certain fixed amount. Most new bikes have this system.

Friction shifting is all done on one continuous spectrum. To go up a gear, you pull a lever that shortens the wire, but the amount of shortening depends on how much you pull the lever. This means you have a much finer amount of control over the position of your derailleur arm. Most older bikes have this system.

Now, indexed shifting is easier to use, as you don't have to adjust a little lever to the exact position you need, as it goes there automatically. But it only works well when the wire is just the right length for each gear. Since the cables are usually made of steel, they tend to expand contract with heat. If you live in Southern California, this doesn't matter. If you live somewhere where the temperature actually changes, this presents problems.

I use friction shifting exclusively. It's much easier to fix and maintain. It breaks down a lot less, and once you get used to the bike, finding the exact right position becomes second nature.Most modern STI (intergral brake shift levers) shifters allow you to 'feather', they'll click down to the next stop when you go to a smaller cog or chainring but when you're shifting to a larger cog or chainring the derailer will stop and hold when you stop pulling on the cable whether you're at the next stop or not. They also are usually set up with a ferrel adjuster at the guide on the front tube (where tradional down tube shifters would be) that you can use to take up or let out cable to adjust for stretch and contraction. I have STI's on all my bikes, Ultegras on my carbon, Campy Veloce on my Bianchi and Shimano Tiagra on my cross bike. I've beat all the low end components that came on my cross to death long ago and have replaced the drivetrain with a mix of 105 and ultegra components. But the entry level Tiagra shifters have held up fine. I use that bike pretty much exclusively for foul weather riding these days. Friction shifters are so old school, which is fine if that's what you're into. But for blasting through traffic and sprinting off stoplights it's sure nice to be able to leap through the gears with a flick of a finger without taking your hands off the bars or brakes.

Its a thingy that clicks thats built into the handle bars.

Right Side=1-3 ( low high higher )
Left Side- 1-7.Sounds like twist shifters, standard low end junk on dept. store mountain style bikes, kids bikes and some comfort bikes. They pretty much throw them on anything with a straight bar. The seven speed cluster is a give-away. Anything better that wasn't more than half a dozen years old would probably have at least a nine speed rear.

i walk but i would love to drive a BMW M3

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/538/escortgw6.jpg

I own a 1996 Ford Escort STW 1.6. (Not my car pictured)
Why? Well, it was cheap, in good condition, and it has lots of room for the dog in the back.

At work, I drive a Toyota Corolla, both hatchback and STW, and soon a Toyota Auris. They're all with the 1.4 diesel engine.

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/538/escortgw6.jpg

I own a 1996 Ford Escort STW 1.6. (Not my car pictured)
Why? Well, it was cheap, in good condition, and it has lots of room for the dog in the back.

At work, I drive a Toyota Corolla, both hatchback and STW, and soon a Toyota Auris. They're all with the 1.4 diesel engine.Oh man that takes me back... up until 3 years ago I had a 93 Escort wagon... it had 15" rims and low pro tires and tinted windows. I replaced the marker lamps with ones off a mercury to give it more of a euro look. Didn't look bad really... for a compact STW.... considering I only paid $1k for it. Passed it on to my son and he blew the engine in a year.

Currently I drive an '03 Mitsubishi Eclipse (which is fun over here in Germany.. get lots of interesting looks) but I'm about to get a new Audi A5. Maybe a BMW 335i, but I'm a big fan of Audi's right now.

A 1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE. Gets about 28 MPG during the summer, and has a nice little engine. I don't drive it a lot (bus to work, FTC!), but it's handy to have around.

Bump, for the sake of getting East Coast Federation to look at my last post before this one.

Here (http://forums.jolt.co.uk/showpost.php?p=13866343&postcount=95).

I drive this (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c5/96-99_Saturn_SL.jpg/800px-96-99_Saturn_SL.jpg)

But I want to drive this. (http://myninjaplease.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/09/14-sep25-volga.jpg)

I walk and use public transit, but I started looking into purchasing a Vespa scooter or something like that. I don't like relying on others for rides but at the same time I don't want to spend a ton of money on petrol.

I drive a 87 Nova that should be in the scrapyard.

It can't go over 45 mph and the motor sometimes stops when I am driving.

I drive a Mazda RX-8 and ironically RX-8 doesnt.

1997 Toyota Camry.

It is our family's "best" car. XD

At my house we have four cars -- a 2006 Saturn VUE, a 1990something Dodge Ram, a 1929 Graham Paige and a 2001 Volkswagen New Beetle. The Beetle is mine, but I'm considering getting a Smart Fortwo after graduating from nursing school. And I drive a VW New Beetle because that's what was purchased for me, heh.

http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/8436/carqp0.jpg

mine. 2.0L '06 diesel 140hp thing, currently with a massive puncture

Incidentally, ECF? Here's a Web site for a magazine started by a rabid car enthusiast named Ron Cogan. Check it out:

http://www.greencar.com/aboutus/

His stance is that "fun to drive" and "environmentally sustainable" aren't mutually exclusive.

And G-o-g, I agree on your shifter/derailleur position. My old bikes were easy to get used to once you knew where the sweet spots were.
Right, find me a eco car thats fun to drive, and wont set you back about 100 grand.

Sounds like twist shifters, standard low end junk on dept. store mountain style bikes, kids bikes and some comfort bikes. They pretty much throw them on anything with a straight bar. The seven speed cluster is a give-away. Anything better that wasn't more than half a dozen years old would probably have at least a nine speed rear.

Well I got it from a Schwinn Dealer, but it was only 240 dollars.