NationStates Jolt Archive

So, I've got a job now, and have been working there for a while. Though I don't have much money yet(mainly due to the way I get paid. It's this whole weird every other week type of thing) I plan on saving what I earn from my paycheck for, you guessed it, a new computer.

See, the computer I've got now is four years old. It was brand new when we bought it. It has served me well over the years, and still does. It's done a whole lot of things, even playing some games it shouldn't be able to with its resources.

And yet...and yet...it's not good enough anymore. Rise of Legends demo is barely playable, and I'm getting that game, as it will be awesome. I also want to play Oblivion, but that's impossible with this computer.

So!

I plan on building a new computer. The purpose of this thread is to ask the geeky NSers(meant as a compliment) to help me. I'm basically trying to build a solid gaming machine capable of running something like Oblivion flawlessly so it'll hold up for a long time before needing new parts. What I'm looking for is the best parts as cheap as possible, though the quality is more important than price. I'll probably be purchasing the parts online and having them delivered, so think internet stores, mostly. So...what to buy and where to get it?

I bought most of my system at newegg. You may find, however, that you don't save much money. The real advantage is knowing what you got inside...

I bought most of my system at newegg. You may find, however, that you don't save much money. The real advantage is knowing what you got inside...
Well, see, the problem is, I'm a computer parts novice at best. I've changed the occasional part or two, popping in some new RAM in one computer, adding a DSL wireless card to this one, etc etc but I don't know what's quality and what's not, and where to get it for the best price. Hence why I ask here.

O BOY! O BOY! O BOY! O BOY! O BOY! O BOY! O BOY! O BOY! O BOY!
What's your budget? So this is going to be a basic internet & oblivion compy? Are you a fanboy of any part's company?


I bought most of my system at newegg. You may find, however, that you don't save much money. The real advantage is knowing what you got inside...
You save plenty. Remember companies like Dell and HP tune down the graphics cards to make them cheaper. Then there is alienware and apple which offer basicly the stock part with a huge price mark-up.

Well, see, the problem is, I'm a computer parts novice at best. I've changed the occasional part or two, popping in some new RAM in one computer, adding a DSL wireless card to this one, etc etc but I don't know what's quality and what's not, and where to get it for the best price. Hence why I ask here.
OIC.

Well, tha last game computer I built was a while back.

You need to get the latest MOBO (motherboard). I had good luck w ASUS.

You probably want a P4 since, as the dominat chip most games are designed to run optimally on them.

Video cards go back and forth - I have an ATI - but I hear they have slipped lately.

Sound cards - soundblaster all the way.

Choose your sound and video card carefully - if you won't use surround then don't worry too much. I overbought on both cases. My video care even has a 'cable in' F cable - and I have satelite! #$%!

DOP NOT GET A MOBO w sound and video intergrated. IT will slow your system.

Get as much memory as you can afford. I bought Corsair.

You may want to go with two hard drives and a RAID setup. The toruble is - if one hard drive fails all your data is $hit! It will, however be a quick load any time you load a program. I frankly just got a single drive - I'm more interested in game performance than I am in fast loads.

Get a DVD/CD writer/reader. They are cheap enough - don't skimp.

WHen you pick a case make sure it has USB on the front. A multi-card reader is also cool.

Unless you are too 'kewl' forego the LED fans, lights and other bling.

Make sure you have a good case fan. Don't get too caught up in finding a quiet one or a quite ps (power supply) IT's going to be noisy unless you invest far more than it is worth. Don't even BOTHER with liquid cooling. Make sure your processor includes a fan or buy one! (cheaper together)

Make sure your power supply is enough for your system. 350-400 is pretty good. Most cases come with a ps of that size.

Check the size of your case - not all are the same! The first one I bought wouldn't fit under my desk because it was too long! #$%! Buy one that has easy acess and good cooling. IF you get a high end card a bigger case will help with the heat it too will spin off.

Don't wrry about cables - most mobos and hardware come with them. Just be careful - my hd was sata and did NOT come w the cables. Grrr!

I would suggest NOT buying the latest greatest. Buy the second lowest. It has had time to be tested and patched - is usually only slightly lower performing but MUCH cheaper.

Hope this helps.

OIC.

Well, tha last game computer I built was a while back.

You need to get the latest MOBO (motherboard). I had good luck w ASUS.

You probably want a P4 since, as the dominat chip most games are designed to run optimally on them.

Video cards go back and forth - I have an ATI - but I hear they have slipped lately.

Sound cards - soundblaster all the way.

Choose your sound and video card carefully - if you won't use surround then don't worry too much. I overbought on both cases. My video care even has a 'cable in' F cable - and I have satelite! #$%!

DOP NOT GET A MOBO w sound and video intergrated. IT will slow your system.

Get as much memory as you can afford. I bought Corsair.

You may want to go with two hard drives and a RAID setup. The toruble is - if one hard drive fails all your data is $hit! It will, however be a quick load any time you load a program. I frankly just got a single drive - I'm more interested in game performance than I am in fast loads.

Get a DVD/CD writer/reader. They are cheap enough - don't skimp.

WHen you pick a case make sure it has USB on the front. A multi-card reader is also cool.

Unless you are too 'kewl' forego the LED fans, lights and other bling.

Make sure you have a good case fan. Don't get too caught up in finding a quiet one or a quite ps (power supply) IT's going to be noisy unless you invest far more than it is worth. Don't even BOTHER with liquid cooling. Make sure your processor includes a fan or buy one! (cheaper together)

Make sure your power supply is enough for your system. 350-400 is pretty good. Most cases come with a ps of that size.

Check the size of your case - not all are the same! The first one I bought wouldn't fit under my desk because it was too long! #$%! Buy one that has easy acess and good cooling. IF you get a high end card a bigger case will help with the heat it too will spin off.

Don't wrry about cables - most mobos and hardware come with them. Just be careful - my hd was sata and did NOT come w the cables. Grrr!

I would suggest NOT buying the latest greatest. Buy the second lowest. It has had time to be tested and patched - is usually only slightly lower performing but MUCH cheaper.

Hope this helps.
It does, thank you. Helps a lot.

What's your budget? So this is going to be a basic internet & oblivion compy? Are you a fanboy of any part's company?

Well, internet and gaming machine would be more accurate, and no, no fanboyism here. Suggest away.

Well, internet and gaming machine would be more accurate, and no, no fanboyism here. Suggest away.
Awesome, no fanboyism=better compy for you. What country are you from? and could you ballpark and what country are you in (to help me keep it in your budget AND because North American power supplies are not legal in Europe [Europe prefers the less efficient type]).

Awesome, no fanboyism=better compy for you. What country are you from? and could you ballpark and what country are you in (to help me keep it in your budget AND because North American power supplies are not legal in Europe [Europe prefers the less efficient type]).
I am in the United States. I'd say a ball park budget of ~1000 U.S. dollars max, as I need to save money for college as well.

Three words, get a Mac. Although gamers claim PCs are better,if you live in the city, and are patient, the majority of good PC games hit Mac sooner or later, and the much lower rate of viruses and computer problems make it worth it...not to mention all the other stuff Macs do well...I have a Mac and I'm never ever going back to PC (unless I get rich enough to have both).

Heck, if worse comes to worse, you can get a virtualPC emulator, or just wait for the new Windows Vista, which some theorize may be compatible with the new Intel Macs.

Three words, get a Mac. Although gamers claim PCs are better,if you live in the city, and are patient, the majority of good PC games hit Mac sooner or later, and the much lower rate of viruses and computer problems make it worth it...not to mention all the other stuff Macs do well...I have a Mac and I'm never ever going back to PC (unless I get rich enough to have both).

Heck, if worse comes to worse, you can get a virtualPC emulator, or just wait for the new Windows Vista, which some theorize may be compatible with the new Intel Macs.
NO THANK YOU. I do not plan to own a Machintosh ever. They are good for some things. They are not good for what I want to do, however. As for the spyware and all that junk, I plan on setting this computer up to defend against that from the get-go.

I suggest Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/) for your hardware needs. Reliable, quick service, excellent support, fast shipping, low prices.

Video Card: eVGA Geforce 7900GT (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814130281) - $289 - Top of the line, blasts everything else out of the water. You'll be able to run the latest games at maximum settings for a long, long time.

Memory: OCZ 2 GB Platinum (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820227210) - $189, $149 after rebate - Perfect for gaming w/heat spreader, low latency, and standard OCZ stability.

Motherboard: DFI LANPARTY nF4 SLI-DR S939 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813136151) - $187 - All the bells and whistles, not too many hassles for a motherboard, unlike my last ASUS.

Processor: AMD Athlon 64 3700+ San Diego (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103539) - $235 - You could go with the 4000+ San Diego instead, but you'd only be upgrading 2.2GHz to 2.4GHz for an extra $100. Not worth it, the 3700+ overclocks like a dream.

Case: ASPIRE X-Superalien (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811144007) - $140 - Comes with 6 fans, 500W PSU, noisy bugger but worth every penny. You'll want the very best case for expensive hardware.

Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 160GB (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16822148105) - $75 - I never use anything but Seagate, this one runs fast and quiet.

Total: $1075 - There are, of course, many other accessories that you can buy. A new monitor, mouse, etc.

I've assembled some options for a PC that I believe could meet your needs. I've tried to limit costs a bit, so the options are primarily upper middle class, or lower high end.


CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103547), or AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103562)

Although the Intel Pentium series of processors is currently more popular amoung the mainstream, AMD processors have demonstrated superior performance in gaming, and usually offer a more cost effective solution - more bang for your dollar, if you will.

The Athlon 64 X2 is a 64 bit, dual core CPU. It'll offer good performance now, and is fairly futureproof because of its 64 bit / dual core nature.

Motherboard: Asus A8N-SLI (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131524)

Asus is my prefered brand of motherboard. They're usually rock solid. Although they're a bit pricier then most comparible motherboards, a low quality motherboard will only lead to misery and tears. The A8N-SLI is mostly a plain-jane motherboard for your Athlon 64 X2, supporting the usual DDR400 RAM, with onboard LAN and sound. The sound will do the job if you're not running anything too fancy, but if you are running a surround sound system, then the onboard might not meet your expectations. This motherboard supports SLI, so if in the future you want to upgrade your graphics capabilities, you can purchase a second videocard matching your first video card, and have the two cards work together. This isn't always the best upgrade path, but it's nice to have the option.

Video Card: Nvidia Geforce 7800 GT by BFG (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814143037), or Nvidia Geforce 7900 GT by BFG (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814143048)

I'm not fully read up on the latest ATI cards, but I think the general situation right now is that Nvidia has the better stable. I've never run a BFG card myself, but from what I hear, they have an excellent reputation. Thier cards come with a full lifetime warrenty, and are overclocked out of the box.

RAM: 2 GB of Corsair Value (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820145579)

RAM is not something you want to go cheap with in terms of quality, but at the higher end, things to tend to get extremely pricey. The Corsair Value series is a good middle ground - reliable, will stand up to a little overclocking, not too expensive. If you want to heavily overclock, then I'd recomend something else, but if you're going to run at factory stock speeds, or only with minor overclocks, then Corsair Value will do fine.

Power Supply: Cooler Master Real Power 450 Watts (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817171001), or Enermax Liberty 620 Watt (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817194004)

Both Cooler Master and Enermax are generally well regarded. It's critical that you go with a good, reliable power supply, since a poor power supply may destabilize, or even damage your other components.

The Cooler Master is enough for the present, but if think you're ever going to go with two video cards as an upgrade path, the Enermax might be a wise investment.


Everything else is pretty much your own preference. For hard drives, I'd recommend Western Digital, Seagate, or Toshiba if you're trying to save a bit. I've heard some bad things about Maxtor, so go with the others if you can.

When selecting a case, the most important thing is obviously just that you like it, but there are a few things to keep an eye out for. Large intake and exhaust fans are always a good thing - I'd recommend a case with a 120mm intake, preferably with the same for exhaust, although a pair of 80mm's for exhaust do the trick as well, albeit with more noise involved. Aluminuim is good if you're going to be moving the computer around from home to college for what have you, but SECC Steel will save you some money if you've got a strong lifting arm. It's heavier then aluminium, but it'll save you a bit of cash.

I'm sure the other PC people will have some input to add or alternative suggestions.

Edited because I can't spell worth a damn

I've assembled some options for a PC that I believe could meet your needs. I've tried to limit costs a bit, so the options are primarily upper middle class, or lower high end.


CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103547), or AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103562)

Although the Intel Pentium series of processors is currently more popular amoung the mainstream, AMD processors have demonstrated superior performance in gaming, and usually offer a more cost effective solution - more bang for your dollar, if you will.

The Athlon 64 X2 is a 64 bit, dual core CPU. It'll offer good performance now, and is fairly futureproof because of its 64 bit / dual core nature.

Motherboard: Asus A8N-SLI (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131524)

Asus is my prefered brand of motherboard. They're usually rock solid. Although they're a bit pricier then most comparible motherboards, I think they're worth it. The A8N-SLI is mostly a plain-jane motherboard for your Athlon 64 X2, supporting the usual DDR400 RAM, with onboard LAN and sound. The sound will do the job if you're not running anything too fancy, but if you are running a surround sound system, then the onboard might not meet your expectations. This motherboard supports SLI, so if in the future you want to upgrade your graphics capabilities, you can purchase a second videocard idenitcal to your first video card, and have the two cards work together. This isn't always the best upgrade path, but it's nice to have the option.

Video Card: Nvidia Geforce 7800 GT by BFG (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814143037), or Nvidia Geforce 7900 GT by BFG (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814143048)

I'm not fully read up on the latest ATI cards, but I think the general situation right now is that Nvidia has the better stable. I've never run a BFG card myself, but from what I hear, they have an excellent reputation. Thier cards come with a full lifetime warrenty, and are overclocked out of the box.

RAM: 2 GB of Corsair Value (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820145579)

RAM is not something you want to go cheap with in terms of quality, but at the higher end, things to tend to get extremely pricey. The Corsair Value series is a good middle ground - reliable, will stand up to a little overclocking, not too expensive. If you want to heavily overclock, then I'd recomend something else, but if you're going to run at factory stock speeds, or only with minor overclocks, then Corsair Value will do fine.

Power Supply: Cooler Master Real Power 450 Watts (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817171001), or Enermax Liberty 620 Watt (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817194004)

Both Cooler Master and Enermax are generally well regarded. It's critical that you go with a good, reliable power supply, since a poor power supply may destabilize, or even damage your other components.

The Cooler Master is enough for the present, but if think you're ever going to go with two video cards as an upgrade path, the Enermax might be a wise investment.


Everything else is pretty much your own preference. For hard drives, I'd recommend Western Digital, Seagate, or Toshiba if you're trying to save a bit. I've heard some bad things about Maxtor, so go with the others if you can.

When selecting a case, the most important thing is obivously just that you like it, but there are a few things to keep an eye out for. Large intake and exhaust fans are always a good thing - I'd recommend a case with a 120mm intake, preferably with the same for exhaust, although a pair of 80mm's for exhaust do the trick as well, albeit with more noise involved. Aluminuim is good if you're going to be moving the computer around from home to college for what have you, but SECC Steel will save you some money if you've got a strong lifting arm. It's heavier then aluminium, but it'll save you a bit of cash.

I'm sure the other PC people will have some input to add or alternative suggestions.

Gotcha, thanks.

And so those who are suggesting know, for sound, I typically just use headphones plugged into this small speakers I carry around, so integrated sound systems like with the motherboard this guy is recommending ought to do it.

Gotcha, thanks.

And so those who are suggesting know, for sound, I typically just use headphones plugged into this small speakers I carry around, so integrated sound systems like with the motherboard this guy is recommending ought to do it.

Dual core processors are not yet being taken advantage of by developers, single core does the same job for a much lower cost. Unless you're doing a ton of multi-tasking, there really isn't a noticeable difference in gaming performance. I don't see dual-core being utilized anytime soon, but if you're paranoid about the future, go ahead and take Kyronea's advice and consider the X2 3800+ or 4200+ Manchester.

Dual core processors are not yet being taken advantage of by developers, single core does the same job for a much lower cost. Unless you're doing a ton of multi-tasking, there really isn't a noticeable difference in gaming performance. I don't see dual-core being utilized anytime soon, but if you're paranoid about the future, go ahead and take Kyronea's advice and consider the X2 3800+ or 4200+ Manchester.
Well, I'm not one to multitask too much. Usually when I play a game I disconnect the internet connection, thus allowing me to shut down my anti-spyware protection and my firewall. I just leave Teatimer running at all times. When online, I just have Firefox and said protection running. So, yeah, no real multitasking.

And understood. I'll keep that in mind as well.

Dual core processors are not yet being taken advantage of by developers, single core does the same job for a much lower cost. Unless you're doing a ton of multi-tasking, there really isn't a noticeable difference in gaming performance.

"Oblivion will absolutely benefit from a multi-processor or multi-core PC architecture. These improvements have largely been driven by our optimizations for the Xbox 360 hardware. We have built a dynamic thread management system that manages processor load by our specific direction and by priorities. Portions of physics, AI, loading, audio, and rendering tasks can all be moved to different threads to keep the overall load balanced. The net result for the end user is a smoother experience." - Producer Gavin Carter, Elder Scrolls 4: Oblivion [Source (http://www.bit-tech.net/gaming/2005/11/09/elder_scrolls_4_int/2.html)]

Since Oblivion was mentioned by Kyronea as being a game that he wanted to play, I think this is paticularly relevent.

Dual cores are becoming more and more important to a gaming PC. While one can do fine right now with a single core, there are already games out that use multiple cores, and the number of titles taking advantage of dual cores will only grow in the next few years.

"Oblivion will absolutely benefit from a multi-processor or multi-core PC architecture. These improvements have largely been driven by our optimizations for the Xbox 360 hardware. We have built a dynamic thread management system that manages processor load by our specific direction and by priorities. Portions of physics, AI, loading, audio, and rendering tasks can all be moved to different threads to keep the overall load balanced. The net result for the end user is a smoother experience." - Producer Gavin Carter, Elder Scrolls 4: Oblivion [Source (http://www.bit-tech.net/gaming/2005/11/09/elder_scrolls_4_int/2.html)]

Since Oblivion was mentioned by Kyronea as being a game that he wanted to play, I think this is paticularly relevent.

Dual cores are becoming more and more important to a gaming PC. While one can do fine right now with a single core, there are already games out that use multiple cores, and the number of titles taking advantage of dual cores will only grow in the next few years.
And as I plan on keeping this computer around for the next four years before upgrading once(probably) I'll need to plan for that. See, this is why I'm asking you guys rather than trying to do this stuff on my own. I don't know this stuff. Thanks for all the advice. Seriously. And anymore you could give will be appreciated as well.

And as I plan on keeping this computer around for the next four years before upgrading once(probably) I'll need to plan for that. See, this is why I'm asking you guys rather than trying to do this stuff on my own. I don't know this stuff. Thanks for all the advice. Seriously. And anymore you could give will be appreciated as well.

Holy crap, the next four years? :eek:

In that case, go dual core. 3800+ Manchester. $62 more than the 3700+ San Diego.

Holy crap, the next four years? :eek:

In that case, go dual core. 3800+ Manchester. $62 more than the 3700+ San Diego.
Yes, the next four years. I don't expect to have too large a budget and thusly won't be able to afford much upgrading of a computer.

For future, after you buy it. Replace the noisy cooling system provided by default on the Athlon64 with much better one. The after-market ones work better and allow more overclocking.

Motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI ATX (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131524) $106.99
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 3400+ (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103484) $154.00
Vid Card: XFX Geforce 7800 GT (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814150108) $289.00
Case: Antec Sonata II (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811129155) $99.93
DVD: Samsung DVD+-RW (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827151121) $34.99
HDD: Seagate barracuda 160GB (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16822148105) $74.99
OS: Win XP Home (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16837102059) $84.95
Memory: 1 GB OCZ RAM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820146890) $128.99

This is basically my basic suggestion for you. If comes in nearly $0 under your budget. Reading through the rest of the thread there are a few changes I would suggest (organized by importance), however they will push you past your budget:

CPU: either get an Opteron 165 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103588) ($327) or an Opteron 148 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103596) ($259). Opterons are higher quality than Athlons and last longer. This also means you can overclock the hell out of them (which may be nessesary at the end of its life. The 165 is dual core which Oblivion can supposably take advantage of.

Motherboard: DFI LANPARTY nF4 SLI (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813136151) ($186.99). If you ever choose to overclock, a DFI board will be much more efficient.

Note: Being forced to use Newegg sucks. I much prefer my Canadian NCIX. *nods*

Motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI ATX (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131524) $106.99
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 3400+ (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103484) $154.00
Vid Card: XFX Geforce 7800 GT (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814150108) $289.00
Case: Antec Sonata II (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811129155) $99.93
DVD: Samsung DVD+-RW (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827151121) $34.99
HDD: Seagate barracuda 160GB (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16822148105) $74.99
OS: Win XP Home (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16837102059) $84.95
Memory: 1 GB OCZ RAM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820146890) $128.99

This is basically my basic suggestion for you. If comes in nearly $0 under your budget. Reading through the rest of the thread there are a few changes I would suggest (organized by importance), however they will push you past your budget:

CPU: either get an Opteron 165 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103588) ($327) or an Opteron 148 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103596) ($259). Opterons are higher quality than Athlons and last longer. This also means you can overclock the hell out of them (which may be nessesary at the end of its life. The 165 is dual core which Oblivion can supposably take advantage of.

Motherboard: DFI LANPARTY nF4 SLI (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813136151) ($186.99). If you ever choose to overclock, a DFI board will be much more efficient.

Note: Being forced to use Newegg sucks. I much prefer my Canadian NCIX. *nods*

You do realize Opterons aren't your normal 939-pin proc, right? You have to get a Server type mobo, and you'll wind up paying more for the mobo.


Kyronea, I'd take Democratic Colonies' advice. Simple, solid, will last for quite a few years and offers a good upgrade path for later. The only change I'd suggest is the case and PSU. I've had PSUs shit out, and I've had them take out half the components of my computer when they did. I will never pay for anything less than a top-end PSU.
Sparkle, Fortron Source, OCZ, Coolermaster, are all top-end PSUs and really not that expensive. Make sure it's at least a 450W and I'd suggest dual +12V rails. Your cpu, mobo, video card, drives, etc. all run off the +12V rail. Having dual +12V rails allows you to dedicate one rail to your CPU, mobo, and drives and the other rail to your video card. Doing so offers more stable voltage to your video card, resulting in better overall performance.

When it comes to RAM, there's a common misconception that latencies (how quickly the RAM responds) are everything in computer speed. What's forgotten is that 2GB of high latency (slower response) RAM will out-perform 1GB of low latency RAM.

For hardcore gaming, your mouse should be an optical mouse so there's no sticking...

DON'T GET ONBOARD SOUND! Even if the MOBO has it - which most do - disable it. AFIK It will eat up resources that a seperate sound card would not. Sound cards are cheap.

I still would not recommend the highest end video card. You get more bang for your buck going one generation down. By the time that is a handicap the 'high end' card you would have spent $250 on will cost only $100 or so...

DON'T GET ONBOARD SOUND! Even if the MOBO has it - which most do - disable it. AFIK It will eat up resources that a seperate sound card would not. Sound cards are cheap.

I still would not recommend the highest end video card. You get more bang for your buck going one generation down. By the time that is a handicap the 'high end' card you would have spent $250 on will cost only $100 or so...

1st: Onboard sound doesnt eat THAT many resources. You guys make it sound like it eats 50% of your available resources, which is just ridiculous. It depends on the sound chip used and FYI: I use both onboard and a PCI soundcard, I dont see any noticeable difference between when I have onboard sound on or off.

2nd: Putting up the extra $100 into your video card now can save you $400 a year or two later when you have to upgrade your video card again because it is now 2-3 generations behind instead of only 1 generation behind.

So, this seems like a good thread to ask.
My computer is beeing flooded with popups and is ridden with adware. I run spybot, AdAware
and McAfee virus scanner. But I can't seem to get rid of the junk. No matter how many scans I run and how often I remove the marked junk. My comp is running slower and it took me nearly 5 minutes to type this meassage.
Any suggestions?

So, this seems like a good thread to ask.
My computer is beeing flooded with popups and is ridden with adware. I run spybot, AdAware
and McAfee virus scanner. But I can't seem to get rid of the junk. No matter how many scans I run and how often I remove the marked junk.

Try hijackthis (http://www.majorgeeks.com/download3155.html).

1) AMD make THE best processors in the world right now. An Athlon64 3700+ or it's Dual-Core equivalent the X2 4400+ give you a good overclocking chip. The X2 3800+ is also an excellent chip but needs more effort to get the best out of it.

2) Asus seem to do pretty much the best boards around. Not quite as uber as a DFI board but solid and well-designed (plus cheaper, especially at the very top end).

3) Right now Nvidia do the best graphics cards. A 7900GT is probably the best 'bang for your buck' gfx card right now (although the cooler has a bad rep for noise).

4) If you have the patience, Intel are making a new processor called Conroe (I think it's eventual name will be Core) which comes out in the summer. From what we know it leaves AMD chips eating the dust.

Hope that helps.

So, this seems like a good thread to ask.
My computer is beeing flooded with popups and is ridden with adware. I run spybot, AdAware
and McAfee virus scanner. But I can't seem to get rid of the junk. No matter how many scans I run and how often I remove the marked junk. My comp is running slower and it took me nearly 5 minutes to type this meassage.
Any suggestions?

Reinstall Windows...quickly backup your pertinent files...and then reformat and reinstall windows. That is, if you want it all gone...

Immediately afterwards, I'd suggest installing Firefox and ZoneAlarm and then being very cautious about what sites you visit.

Well, I have also taken all of your's advice, and I might as well thank you so I won't be rude. Now then, just have to slim it and find new stores... *wanders of to pricerunner*

Reinstall Windows...quickly backup your pertinent files...and then reformat and reinstall windows. That is, if you want it all gone...

Immediately afterwards, I'd suggest installing Firefox and ZoneAlarm and then being very cautious about what sites you visit.
That was my first thought. But then...I don't have the Windows CD anymore. I...well.. I once sat on the stupid thing. Why the hell do they have to be so damn fragile??:mad:

That was my first thought. But then...I don't have the Windows CD anymore. I...well.. I once sat on the stupid thing. Why the hell do they have to be so damn fragile??:mad:

Still have the key?

Still have the key?
No. Why? I threw it out with the rest of it.

You do realize Opterons aren't your normal 939-pin proc, right? You have to get a Server type mobo, and you'll wind up paying more for the mobo.


Kyronea, I'd take Democratic Colonies' advice. Simple, solid, will last for quite a few years and offers a good upgrade path for later. The only change I'd suggest is the case and PSU. I've had PSUs shit out, and I've had them take out half the components of my computer when they did. I will never pay for anything less than a top-end PSU.
Sparkle, Fortron Source, OCZ, Coolermaster, are all top-end PSUs and really not that expensive. Make sure it's at least a 450W and I'd suggest dual +12V rails. Your cpu, mobo, video card, drives, etc. all run off the +12V rail. Having dual +12V rails allows you to dedicate one rail to your CPU, mobo, and drives and the other rail to your video card. Doing so offers more stable voltage to your video card, resulting in better overall performance.

When it comes to RAM, there's a common misconception that latencies (how quickly the RAM responds) are everything in computer speed. What's forgotten is that 2GB of high latency (slower response) RAM will out-perform 1GB of low latency RAM.

For hardcore gaming, your mouse should be an optical mouse so there's no sticking...
The 1xx series Opterons are socket 939. I know; I have one. They use the sasme unregistered non-ECC RAM the Athlons use and are designed to last longer.

@ RAM There are exceptions, but that is typically correct. Especially for multitaskers.

@ PSU Antec makes decent power suplies; it is one of the reasons I suggested the Sonata II as a case. It is 450 Watts and "SLI Certified", which actually means jack shit because lots of "SLI Certified" PSU's cannot handle two 7900's (usually because it is impossible to balance draw on the rails).

No. Why? I threw it out with the rest of it.
B/c if you did, I'd tell you to DL the cracked version of XP and just use your key to activate it...

B/c if you did, I'd tell you to DL the cracked version of XP and just use your key to activate it...
Oh....

1) AMD make THE best processors in the world right now. An Athlon64 3700+ or it's Dual-Core equivalent the X2 4400+ give you a good overclocking chip. The X2 3800+ is also an excellent chip but needs more effort to get the best out of it.

2) Asus seem to do pretty much the best boards around. Not quite as uber as a DFI board but solid and well-designed (plus cheaper, especially at the very top end).

3) Right now Nvidia do the best graphics cards. A 7900GT is probably the best 'bang for your buck' gfx card right now (although the cooler has a bad rep for noise).

4) If you have the patience, Intel are making a new processor called Conroe (I think it's eventual name will be Core) which comes out in the summer. From what we know it leaves AMD chips eating the dust.

Hope that helps.
Do you know how much this Conroe/Core processor will cost? I'll not have this budget together for a couple months, probably, so I think I have time enough for it to come out if I feel it is necessary to snatch it up.

As for the rest of you: thanks again for all the suggestions. This is a lot more than I expected. You guys are great.

Do you know how much this Conroe/Core processor will cost? I'll not have this budget together for a couple months, probably, so I think I have time enough for it to come out if I feel it is necessary to snatch it up.

As for the rest of you: thanks again for all the suggestions. This is a lot more than I expected. You guys are great.
Probably alot. It will be brand new technology, much better than anything else on the market, and made by Intel (who typically has higher prices).

Probably alot. It will be brand new technology, much better than anything else on the market, and made by Intel (who typically has higher prices).
Lol I usualy wait for the new technology to come out so it pushes the rest of the good hardware down into my pricerange lol

Probably alot. It will be brand new technology, much better than anything else on the market, and made by Intel (who typically has higher prices).
In other words, probably out of my price range. Yay. ~_~

If you're rich, get an Athlon64 FX60 - Dual core and the fastest non-Opteron socket 939.

* Dreams on *

If you're rich, get an Athlon64 FX60 - Dual core and the fastest non-Opteron socket 939.

* Dreams on *
Eeegads! No way could I afford that!

Eeegads! No way could I afford that!

Neither can I, but I will eventually get one to replace my Athlon64 3200+ ... when they don't cost like a new PC system.

i suggest
an ASUS motherboard compatible with 64 bit processors and SLI
a 64 bit AMD processor
2 BIOSTAR video cards (BIOSTAR may be a no-name but they are cheap and actually quite amazing)
for a decent gaming machine i would say 1 GB of RAM should be enough but if you wish to get more go for it.
as for cooling, oil immersion sounds fun :) but i wouldnt recommend it with a new machine. aif you are interested in watercooling though i recommend a swiftech. they are expensive but when it comes to water cooling you shouldnt mind paying extra for the reliability.

Do you know how much this Conroe/Core processor will cost? I'll not have this budget together for a couple months, probably, so I think I have time enough for it to come out if I feel it is necessary to snatch it up.

As for the rest of you: thanks again for all the suggestions. This is a lot more than I expected. You guys are great.


I dunno how accurate this article is but maybe worth a look.

http://www.reghardware.co.uk/2006/04/05/intel_conroe_pricing_details/

I dunno how accurate this article is but maybe worth a look.

http://www.reghardware.co.uk/2006/04/05/intel_conroe_pricing_details/

Man, Conroe beats even the Athlon64 FX60 and Pentium 965 Extreme Edition. As for name "Core 2" sounds likes ... an Apple.

Man, Conroe beats even the Athlon64 FX60 and Pentium 965 Extreme Edition. As for name "Core 2" sounds likes ... an Apple.

Well you've seen Intel's applemacs haven't you?

Okay, so I've got an idea of what I want for most parts. Any specific suggestions about the harddrive? I want something with a LOT of space. I also plan on hooking the harddrive of my current computer into the new one so I don't have to waste time copying essential data over and all that junk.

Okay, so I've got an idea of what I want for most parts. Any specific suggestions about the harddrive? I want something with a LOT of space. I also plan on hooking the harddrive of my current computer into the new one so I don't have to waste time copying essential data over and all that junk.

When shopping for a hard drive, keep in mind that the higher the number of platters and heads, the faster the drive can write... Not that it's going to be a highly noticeable difference unless doing some serious downloading, but it is there.

Okay, so I've got an idea of what I want for most parts. Any specific suggestions about the harddrive? I want something with a LOT of space. I also plan on hooking the harddrive of my current computer into the new one so I don't have to waste time copying essential data over and all that junk.
Get a Seagate Baracuuda. Buy the largest capacity SATA drive you can afford. Seagates are very reliable. When you are ready to buy, Seagate will have a 750GB drive on the market which offers good performance and a high GB/$.

Ok. i havent had the time to read this thread. but if you wish to play games. make sure your motherboard you are buying is able to use DDR2 ram. and PCI-E video card

Sorry if someone else has already said this

OIC.



You probably want a P4 since, as the dominat chip most games are designed to run optimally on them.



filthy lies, P4 sucketh meaty wang when it comes to gaming, AMD 64 all the way.

Three words, get a Mac. Although gamers claim PCs are better,if you live in the city, and are patient, the majority of good PC games hit Mac sooner or later, and the much lower rate of viruses and computer problems make it worth it...not to mention all the other stuff Macs do well...I have a Mac and I'm never ever going back to PC (unless I get rich enough to have both).

Heck, if worse comes to worse, you can get a virtualPC emulator, or just wait for the new Windows Vista, which some theorize may be compatible with the new Intel Macs.


BACK BACK I SAY
*Throws Holy water*

THE POWER OF CHRIST COMPELLS YOU

*waves cross*

Ok. i havent had the time to read this thread. but if you wish to play games. make sure your motherboard you are buying is able to use DDR2 ram. and PCI-E video card

Sorry if someone else has already said this

1) The Athlon 64 range (current best gaming CPU's) are not compatible with DDR2. As it stands they actually work better with straight DDR (they have a socket change coming up which lets them work with DDR2 and the tests are coming up WORSE using DDR2). Also, when talking about RAM, Value ram from big companies (Corsair particualary) is barely worse than their top-end stuff but half the price.

2) PCI-E goes without saying. What few AGP cards there are that might be faintly competetive with PCI-E don't have anything special about them.

1) The Athlon 64 range (current best gaming CPU's) are not compatible with DDR2. As it stands they actually work better with straight DDR (they have a socket change coming up which lets them work with DDR2 and the tests are coming up WORSE using DDR2). Also, when talking about RAM, Value ram from big companies (Corsair particualary) is barely worse than their top-end stuff but half the price.

2) PCI-E goes without saying. What few AGP cards there are that might be faintly competetive with PCI-E don't have anything special about them.

Well, the AM2 or something socket will use faster DDR. I really hope it makes a real difference as the Intel's already use the faster memory.

Well you've seen Intel's applemacs haven't you?

Yep, I think Apple marketers work in Intel now ...

Well, the AM2 or something socket will use faster DDR. I really hope it makes a real difference as the Intel's already use the faster memory.
Actually, the later versions of AMD chips are running up to 2k FSB (with the dual core) and any chip is going to benefit from the extra bandwidth resulting from higher speed RAM.

Actually, the later versions of AMD chips are running up to 2k FSB (with the dual core) and any chip is going to benefit from the extra bandwidth resulting from higher speed RAM.

Except that they haven't. All the preview benchmarks of AM2 that I've seen have made no appreciable difference and in several cases, peformances have decreased.

This will change as DDR2 improves and we can get lower-latency versions sure but right now AMD is cheerily kicking Intel in the nads for performance with 'old' DDR memory, Intel needs a lot more than mere DDR2 to come close to matching AMD.

Get a Seagate Baracuuda. Buy the largest capacity SATA drive you can afford. Seagates are very reliable. When you are ready to buy, Seagate will have a 750GB drive on the market which offers good performance and a high GB/$.
I gotcha. Thank you, Posi.

1) The Athlon 64 range (current best gaming CPU's) are not compatible with DDR2. As it stands they actually work better with straight DDR (they have a socket change coming up which lets them work with DDR2 and the tests are coming up WORSE using DDR2). Also, when talking about RAM, Value ram from big companies (Corsair particualary) is barely worse than their top-end stuff but half the price.

2) PCI-E goes without saying. What few AGP cards there are that might be faintly competetive with PCI-E don't have anything special about them.
1) The AM2 Athlons have surpassed their S939 counterparts in performance.

2)AGP cards have something specialto them. They can cost twice as much and offer worse performance.

1) The AM2 Athlons have surpassed their S939 counterparts in performance.

2)AGP cards have something specialto them. They can cost twice as much and offer worse performance.
Okay, so should I go with something for DDR or DDR2 compatability? I'm getting mixed messages here.

Okay, so should I go with something for DDR or DDR2 compatability? I'm getting mixed messages here.
DDR-->Cheaper

OIC.

You probably want a P4 since, as the dominat chip most games are designed to run optimally on them.

Hope this helps.

I agree with the rest of your post, but every single game available runs better on an athlon 64 than on a P4. But Intel are soon releasing a new chip that is much better, and AMD are moving to a new socket, so at the moment I would just wait a little while and see what happens.

If your after cheap stuff, an X1800xt can be had for £170 (not cheap but still good value), Ive been playing oblivion with everything on full with one of those.

DDR-->Cheaper
Gotcha.

I agree with the rest of your post, but every single game available runs better on an athlon 64 than on a P4. But Intel are soon releasing a new chip that is much better, and AMD are moving to a new socket, so at the moment I would just wait a little while and see what happens.

If your after cheap stuff, an X1800xt can be had for £170 (not cheap but still good value), Ive been playing oblivion with everything on full with one of those.
NVIDIA cards offer more bang for the buck with Oblivion.

Get a Seagate Baracuuda. Buy the largest capacity SATA drive you can afford. Seagates are very reliable. When you are ready to buy, Seagate will have a 750GB drive on the market which offers good performance and a high GB/$.
I have never had an issue with a seagate drive ever

Over 200 put in machines (custom built or upgrades) of various SATA, SATAII and IDE, and sizes


Though I have also had a good run of hitachi and at times WD (on some of their drives)

Have had a bad run of fujitsu and Maxtor

-snip snip-
Ya hear Gateway is going to sell a PC that can be overclocked?:eek:

Ya hear Gateway is going to sell a PC that can be overclocked?:eek:
They just using a mobo that has more of said features included ya meaning? or writing some software for softclocking?

They just using a mobo that has more of said features included ya meaning? or writing some software for softclocking?
They are just leaving the standard Intel BIOS on the mobo. Usually, it would be replaced with a modified version that does not allow overclocking.

They are just leaving the standard Intel BIOS on the mobo. Usually, it would be replaced with a modified version that does not allow overclocking.
...why would Gateway not allow overclocking? Typically most people don't do it anyway, and those that do know what they're doing, so why not allow it?

...why would Gateway not allow overclocking? Typically most people don't do it anyway, and those that do know what they're doing, so why not allow it?
Because if the person is buying a Gateway, it is likely that it is the person's first time overclocking. They are likely to push it too far and either destroy a componant or have an unstable system; both they would blame on Gateway. They would also have to shorten their warrenty as overclocking reduces your computer's lifespan. For the cynical bastards out there, allowing you to overclock also means you are less likely to buy upgrades.

Because if the person is buying a Gateway, it is likely that it is the person's first time overclocking. They are likely to push it too far and either destroy a componant or have an unstable system; both they would blame on Gateway. They would also have to shorten their warrenty as overclocking reduces your computer's lifespan. For the cynical bastards out there, allowing you to overclock also means you are less likely to buy upgrades.
Huh.

So what all does overclocking do to your system? I've only ever overclocked a system once, and that was only for a while and a brief amount of overclocking overall at that.

Huh.

So what all does overclocking do to your system? I've only ever overclocked a system once, and that was only for a while and a brief amount of overclocking overall at that.
Well, running the CPU at a higher speed creates more heat. The lifespan of your componants is related to the temperature that they normally operate at (inversly and exponentially). Also, people often increase the voltage to keep the system stable, which produces more heat.

Well, running the CPU at a higher speed creates more heat. The lifespan of your componants is related to the temperature that they normally operate at (inversly and exponentially). Also, people often increase the voltage to keep the system stable, which produces more heat.
Could you counter the negative effects with a better cooling system? Or will that only help so much?

Could you counter the negative effects with a better cooling system? Or will that only help so much?
Yes, you can. You can buycooling systems that will lower yourcomputer's temperature to -25C (-75F), but they cost a few hundred dollars. There is a point where even better cooling won't keep the products lifespan from shortening.

Yes, you can. You can buycooling systems that will lower yourcomputer's temperature to -25C (-75F), but they cost a few hundred dollars. There is a point where even better cooling won't keep the products lifespan from shortening.
So, basically, if I plan to overclock, I should just buy a cooling system that is a little more active than a normal one, and not overclock by much, and do so infrequently. Have I got that right?

So, basically, if I plan to overclock, I should just buy a cooling system that is a little more active than a normal one, and not overclock by much, and do so infrequently. Have I got that right?
If you buy decent aftermarket cooler, you can usually OC by about 20% and just keep it there. If you plan to overclock buy some PC3500 or PC4000 RAM. It will allow you to keep your RAM operating at the same speed as your FSB which makes it easier to OC.

If you buy decent aftermarket cooler, you can usually OC by about 20% and just keep it there. If you plan to overclock buy some PC3500 or PC4000 RAM. It will allow you to keep your RAM operating at the same speed as your FSB which makes it easier to OC.
Right.

Does overclocking really help all that much though? Also, how do I avoid running out of virtual memory? I have that problem all the time on this computer even with over twelve gigabytes of free space.

Right.

Does overclocking really help all that much though?
Depends on what you are doing. If you plan on working with multimedia or doing some major coding you will see a difference. Otherwise it is mostly placebo(sp?) effect.

Also, how do I avoid running out of virtual memory? I have that problem all the time on this computer even with over twelve gigabytes of free space.
Two things:
1) Buy more RAM. Your compy will use the paging file (virtual memory) when it fills your RAM up with data. This is the better solution as RAM is much faster than a paging file.
2) Manually increase the size of your paging file. If you right click my computer, and click hardware (IIRC, could be performance) you will see a button for virtual memory. Click the radio button that corresponds with user defined and set it yourself. I usually set my max and mins to 2024MB.

Depends on what you are doing. If you plan on working with multimedia or doing some major coding you will see a difference. Otherwise it is mostly placebo(sp?) effect.


Two things:
1) Buy more RAM. Your compy will use the paging file (virtual memory) when it fills your RAM up with data. This is the better solution as RAM is much faster than a paging file.
2) Manually increase the size of your paging file. If you right click my computer, and click hardware (IIRC, could be performance) you will see a button for virtual memory. Click the radio button that corresponds with user defined and set it yourself. I usually set my max and mins to 2024MB.
Gotcha. I've been increasing the size of that page file, as I've only 256 megabytes of RAM to work with on this computer, but I don't think I increased it to that size yet. It'll work till I get the money down to buy all the parts I need, at least.

Gotcha. I've been increasing the size of that page file, as I've only 256 megabytes of RAM to work with on this computer, but I don't think I increased it to that size yet. It'll work till I get the money down to buy all the parts I need, at least.
I used to have 96MB of RAM (that computer now has 220MB, I recently discovered one of the sticks was not inserted fully)to work with. It was painful as hell. That is probably why I keep such a rediculusly high amount of virtual memory. I bet on my PC it doesn't even get touched.

I used to have 96MB of RAM (that computer now has 220MB, I recently discovered one of the sticks was not inserted fully)to work with. It was painful as hell. That is probably why I keep such a rediculusly high amount of virtual memory. I bet on my PC it doesn't even get touched.
Yahyah.

You know, I think I'm gonna cannabalize anything in my current computer that is compatable with my new one. I already plan on taking the harddrive for both the space and all the data on it, so I might as well fully cannabalize.

Unless my parents insist that I don't. Then I'll just buy an extra harddrive to replace the one I'll take and give it back to them.

Yahyah.

You know, I think I'm gonna cannabalize anything in my current computer that is compatable with my new one. I already plan on taking the harddrive for both the space and all the data on it, so I might as well fully cannabalize.

Unless my parents insist that I don't. Then I'll just buy an extra harddrive to replace the one I'll take and give it back to them.
You would probably be better of copying the files from your old disk to your new one. If your old one is 4 years old, it is going to be much slower than a new harddrive, and a lot smaller too.

Also,very little will be compatable with your new computer. Prolly just the harddrive and a network card (that is if you have one).

You would probably be better of copying the files from your old disk to your new one. If your old one is 4 years old, it is going to be much slower than a new harddrive, and a lot smaller too.

Also,very little will be compatable with your new computer. Prolly just the harddrive and a network card (that is if you have one).
Alright then. Can I do that directly by connecting it temporarily?

And yes, I have a wireless network card. I'm going to need to keep that in if I hope to continue using the internet.

Alright then. Can I do that directly by connecting it temporarily?You would have to open your compy up, plug it in then copy the files, then take it out.

And yes, I have a wireless network card. I'm going to need to keep that in if I hope to continue using the internet.
But then your other computer won't be able to connect which your parents may object to.

You would have to open your compy up, plug it in then copy the files, then take it out.


But then your other computer won't be able to connect which your parents may object to.
Gotcha. Shouldn't be too hard.

And I think we've got at least one extra card, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I will say this, and this alone, when building a new computer a good power supply is vital, over 500 watts no adays. I recomend either an Ultra if you are in America/Canade, or in europe i say a Hiper (I use a Hiper, best PSU i ever saw). Without good power any other parts you get will suffer.
Also just to add to this, i personally would recomend a socket 939 mobo, with a san diego (amd) 3700+, mix that with 1gb ddr3200, and a decent hard drive and you have a nice machine, also add in a 6800gs for good gaming performance and not too pricey.

I will say this, and this alone, when building a new computer a good power supply is vital, over 500 watts no adays. I recomend either an Ultra if you are in America/Canada, or in europe i say a Hiper (I use a Hiper, best PSU i ever saw). Without good power any other parts you get will suffer.
Also just to add to this, i personally would recomend a socket 939 mobo, with a san diego (amd) 3700+, mix that with 1gb ddr3200, and a decent hard drive and you have a nice machine, also add in a 6800gs for good gaming performance and not too pricey.
I recommend the PSU that comes with the Antec Sonata II case. It's what I use and I have never had a problem.

I recommend the PSU that comes with the Antec Sonata II case. It's what I use and I have never had a problem.
Did i mention that the Hiper comes with SLI ready, and sata connections for up to 4 sata drives and 8 other devices, if looking to upgrade or take a PSU to a new machine the extra money is worth getting this supply, it will last for a good ten years no hastle.

Any specific recommendations on cases? I've browsed briefly and saw many a cool case, but I don't know which one would be the best. I'm probably going to follow through on Democratic what's-his-face's advice, if that helps. While I prefer function over form, if I could get a great looking case while fulfilling what I need, that's preferable.

Did i mention that the Hiper comes with SLI ready, and sata connections for up to 4 sata drives and 8 other devices, if looking to upgrade or take a PSU to a new machine the extra money is worth getting this supply, it will last for a good ten years no hastle.
That is all good stuff, just the 450 Watt smart power would easily handle a system in his budget, and would come free with the case (if he gets a Sonata II case), allowing him to spend the money elseware.

Any specific recommendations on cases? I've browsed briefly and saw many a cool case, but I don't know which one would be the best. I'm probably going to follow through on Democratic what's-his-face's advice, if that helps. While I prefer function over form, if I could get a great looking case while fulfilling what I need, that's preferable.
Did he even recommend a case? He said to get one made out of aluminum, or steel if you wanna pinch pennies.

I would recommend the Antec Sonata II case. It has a somewhat professional look to it, comes with a 450 Watt PSU (which will save you about $80), is quiet and offers good cooling.

Did he even recommend a case? He said to get one made out of aluminum, or steel if you wanna pinch pennies.

I would recommend the Antec Sonata II case. It has a somewhat professional look to it, comes with a 450 Watt PSU (which will save you about $80), is quiet and offers good cooling.
Nice. It looks good too. I think that'll do it, then. I know essentially what to get for everything. Now, I just need some instructions, and the money to purchase the parts, and I'm set!

Nice. It looks good too. I think that'll do it, then. I know essentially what to get for everything. Now, I just need some instructions, and the money to purchase the parts, and I'm set!
What's your partlist look like?

What's your partlist look like?
Essentially what Democractic what's-his-face suggested, with the Antect Sonata Case and a Seagate harddrive.

Should I get a new monitor while I'm at it? I'd consider a flatscreen, but from what I heard, those don't function well at over 8000 feet...

Essentially what Democractic what's-his-face suggested, with the Antect Sonata Case and a Seagate harddrive.

Should I get a new monitor while I'm at it? I'd consider a flatscreen, but from what I heard, those don't function well at over 8000 feet...
Remember, you won't need the Power Supply.

Remember, you won't need the Power Supply.
I know, I know.

Kyronea, what monitor do have now? If you have nice 17" or 19" CRT, use it until it dies. As for 14" or 15", too small these days. If you get a new monitor, get an LCD and not CRT - you get back lots of deskspace.

Kyronea, what monitor do have now? If you have nice 17" or 19" CRT, use it until it dies. As for 14" or 15", too small these days. If you get a new monitor, get an LCD and not CRT - you get back lots of deskspace.
Agreed

My personal fav monitor to use (16 systems built with it so far)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16824001070

God I love this monitor

Kyronea, what monitor do have now? If you have nice 17" or 19" CRT, use it until it dies. As for 14" or 15", too small these days. If you get a new monitor, get an LCD and not CRT - you get back lots of deskspace.
I've got one of those really old bulky NEC MultiSync XV17+ monitors. I think this is the one that came with our old NEC computer we bought back in 1996, our first Windows PC.

I've got one of those really old bulky NEC MultiSync XV17+ monitors. I think this is the one that came with our old NEC computer we bought back in 1996, our first Windows PC.
How big is it?

How big is it?
Screen size? 17", I think. I'd say it's about ~.6 metres on a side if you're talking about the size of the entire thing.

Screen size? 17", I think. I'd say it's about ~.6 metres on a side if you're talking about the size of the entire thing.
17" I didn't think they were made that big in 96'. And, I am in Canada, .6 meters means nothing to me.

17" I didn't think they were made that big in 96'. And, I am in Canada, .6 meters means nothing to me.
...I thought you Canucks used the metric system. Damn. Okay, so 2.5 feet.

I've yet to have any real problem with it. Not even a single impression of a burnt in image. My only problem with it is its extreme bulkiness and the amount of space it takes up on my desk.

...I thought you Canucks used the metric system. Damn. Okay, so 2.5 feet.

I've yet to have any real problem with it. Not even a single impression of a burnt in image. My only problem with it is its extreme bulkiness and the amount of space it takes up on my desk.
2.5 Feet?:eek:

We are supposed to be metric, but they only really taugh it to people in the eighties, and assumed that they would teach it to their kids. The problem is the kids of people who went to school in the eighties are just entering school now.

2.5 Feet?:eek:

We are supposed to be metric, but they only really taugh it to people in the eighties, and assumed that they would teach it to their kids. The problem is the kids of people who went to school in the eighties are just entering school now.
Oh, I see.

And yes, unless I'm completely off in my ability to measure by just looking at something, which would not surprise me. In fact, I probably am, and it's more like 1 foot.

...

Yes, I most definitely need to get a ruler or measuring tape next time. ~_~

Oh, I see.

And yes, unless I'm completely off in my ability to measure by just looking at something, which would not surprise me. In fact, I probably am, and it's more like 1 foot.

...

Yes, I most definitely need to get a ruler or measuring tape next time. ~_~
Well, 2.5 feet would mean that your computer is twice as deep as your screen is from corner to corner.

Which it's not.

But this is getting off topic. Should I consider replacing this monitor? And if so, with what?

Which it's not.

But this is getting off topic. Should I consider replacing this monitor? And if so, with what?
With what UpwardThrust suggested or a Dell moniter.

With what UpwardThrust suggested or a Dell moniter.
Okay then.