Clan Smoke Jaguar
02-11-2003, 21:28
INTRO
As can be expected from a game like this, there is a significant tendency for players to tinker around and design their own original units. However, something many such players fail to realize is what kind of limitations there are on such units. As such, this post is here to give some information on the capabilities and limitations of armored vehicles, which pertains both to real and original designs. It's intended to help designers by showing what can and can't be done; and sellers and buyers by showing some advantages and deficiencies that are not found in basic statistics.
ARMOR
With that out of the way, I think that we should start with a look at one of the most important features of a tank: armor. Tank armor has evolved quite a bit since they were first employed in WWI, as better materials became available and protection requirements increased to keep up with evolving antitank weapons. Though the basic steel armor from WWI and WWII can still be found on many tank designs still in service, it has shifted to layers of steel and composites in most modern units.
Despite the better materials used, steel armor is still used as the base for measuring protection, in the form of RHA. Basically, 14mm of armor protection means that the protection is equivalent to a plate of rolled homogenous steel that's 14mm thick. The actual armor could be much thicker or much thinner, depending on the materials used. However, things do get complicated as the two different types of tank-killing rounds, Sabot and HEAT, are affected differently by other materials. As such, separate values are required for both. As composite armors were designed primarily against HEAT warheads, it's not surprising that they're more effective against them. The armor on the M1 for example, has 800mm of protection against Sabots, but an impressive 1300mm of protection against HEAT. A modern or near-future main battle tank will usually have in the range of 400-1000mm of ballistic (Sabot) protection, and 600-1700mm of HEAT protection, with the difference between the two varying according to the amount of armor and the materials used.
Now, for armor design. This is one of the most common areas for someone to slip up, as many people refuse to accept just how this goes. So here, we will look at features and limitations for armor. Pay attention.
One of the most significant advances in armor in WWII was the idea of sloping it, which would often cause rounds to bounce off rather than penetrate. Since WWII, armor slope has increased significantly, from 45-60 degrees to 65-80, which means that rounds are increasingly likely to be deflected, unless they have sufficient energy, which sabot rounds often do. Another effect from sloping is increasing the thickness of armor that must be penetrated without increasing the armor itself. However, as is quite obvious, only the front armor can be really well sloped. Side and rear armor, because of limitations on size and space, are never very well sloped, which greatly reduces protection. In addition to this, those same limitations drop the amount of armor that can actually be put there, so side and rear armor are not only less sloped, but thinner than frontal armor. Now, many players thing that dropping the side armor by 25%, and the rear to 50% of the front is sufficient. This is not true. A tank with 450mm of frontal armor protection will likely have less than 150mm of side armor, and even less for rear. By WWII, even without sloped armor, side protection was often only 1/2 that of frontal protection. With modern armor, side armor would only be 20-30% as good as the front armor, tops. The fact is, most tanks are vulnerable to just about any infantry-fired weapon if they're not engaged head-on.
Another advance in armor design was first employed in the late-1960s, and this was layered composite armor. Steel armor, while not bad, is actually relatively soft and easy to penetrate. While this can be hardened, there are limitations (it's more brittle and likely to fragment), and it's still not as good as many other materials used today. Originally, tanks would use just steel, which was later replaced by a layer hardened steel over one of RHS. With this, the hardened steel would protect better against penetrating rounds, and the softer RHA would stop the fragments. HEAT warheads changed this, as they could easily blow through both types of steel. To defend against HEAT, newer materials were developed, which were harder than steel, and more resistant to HEAT warheads, though many vehicles still use a layer of RHA to protect against fragmentation. The new layered composites are used in most modern tanks, which have widely varying degrees of protection depending on the exact ratio and type of composite used.
Another form of defense against HEAT warheads was ERA (Explosive Reactive Armor). ERA is applied in blocks, comprised of two thin sheets of armor around an explosive charge. These blocks are then attached to the armor of the tank, with a small space between the bottom sheet and the tank's own armor. The idea here is that, when a HEAT round strikes the ERA plate, the charge detonates, which sends the first sheet flying into the warhead to help disrupt it. At the same time, the second sheet is pushed into the armor, which it bounces off of to provide a second buffer to disrupt the HEAT's jet even further. Now, the limitations of ERA are not very well known, but they are significant. For one thing, the angle of the strike is a major factor in determining the effectiveness of the pack. At optimum angles, over 75% of the HEAT warhead’s jet may be disrupted, and thus used up. However, this can be dropped to less than 10% when the attacking warhead strikes the armor at a perfect 90-degree angle. As such, missiles that fly a top attack profile, and air launched weapons, are much more effective against ERA than normal ground-launched weapons. Another weakness is that standard ERA has only extremely limited effectiveness against sabot rounds. While there is a heavier version for deflecting those, it is less effective against HEAT warheads and can actually cause some damage to the vehicle itself as the plate rebounds off the armor. ERA is also, naturally, a one-use defense. Once a pack is used up, that area is perfectly vulnerable to further attack. Finally, ERA produces lethal fragments, so dismounted infantry cannot effectively escort a unit equipped with ERA. That’s just suicidal.
ANTI-TANK ROUNDS
The next thing to look into is related to armor, and that’s the weapons that are designed to defeat it. There are two primary methods of beating armor: long-rod penetrators (sabots), and HEAT warheads. Virtually all modern anti-tank weapons use one of these. One thing to remember here is that, regardless of the type of round used, it must have greater penetration capability than the armor it strikes to take out the target. This means that, if a round with exactly 400mm of penetration strikes exactly 400mm of armor, there will often be no effect other than a hole in the armor, as there was no energy left to cause internal damage. There is a chance of fragmentation, but I wouldn’t be betting on it.
A sabot round has a sub-caliber projectile. In other words, the actual round has a smaller diameter than the gun that fires it. Generally, the actual penetrator is 1/3-1/4 the diameter of the gun (30-40mm for a 120mm gun). The penetrator is surrounded in the cartridge by a sabot, which keeps it centered as it travels through the barrel, amd peels off after exiting the breach (hence DS – Discarding Sabot). As it’s using the same propellant as a full-caliber round, the penetrator can achieve significant velocities in the range of 1650 m/s (over Mach 4). The penetrator, in order to maximize effect, is made of strong, heavy metal, usually either tungsten or depleted uranium. Of these, DU is significantly more effective, as it’s slightly harder. It also tends to have particles that flake off and ignite upon penetration, causing fires within the enemy tank-always a good thing. The problems with DU are that 1) it’s slightly radioactive, 2) the dust created when a round hits is extremely toxic, causing environmental problems as well as making the area hazardous to unprotected troops, and 3) it’s very difficult to work with safely. Tungsten, on the other hand, is much safer and cheaper, but less effective. The penetrator is very long and thin, with a lengh to diameter ratio of 15-20 to 1, and up to 30 to 1 in some rounds. This forces greater mass into a smaller focal point, greatly enhancing penetration. However, the higher the ratio, the more likely the penetrator is to break up on impact (greater relative stress) and thus become useless. The greatest weakness of long-rod penetrators is that, with modern sloping and composites, they must fly perfectly straight and strike the armor squarely, or run the risk of losing up to 80% of their penetration. Another is that the round’s effectiveness is based on its energy at impact, which means that the further away the target is, the less effective the round will be. This is why heavier ERA can be effective-it throws them off just slightly, but enough to dramatically reduce penetration. While this type of round is found primarily in tanks, there are a few missiles that use the same idea. The most notable of these is the US LOSAT (Line-of-Sight Anti-Tank) missile, which accelerates to extreme velocities to use a penetrating rod, rather than the traditional warhead, to engage the tank. Another important thing about these rounds is that they’re primarily fired from smoothbore guns, as the extreme velocities involved will wear out a rifled barrel very quickly.
The second primary type of round is the HEAT (High Explosive Anti-Tank) warhead. HEAT rounds use chemical, rather than kinetic, forces to achieve penetration. A HEAT warhead has an explosive charge packed around a metallic liner (usually copper or aluminum). When the round detonates, the liner is collapsed inward, then heated and compressed into a molten jet with a velocity in the range of 8000-9000 m/s (around Mach 25!). This stream is still solid, but behaves like a fluid due to the pressures involved, and uses a combination of heat and localized kinetic energy which deforms and pushes the armor aside, burning a hole. To allow the jet to achieve optimum form before striking the armor, the fuse is set at the end of a long probe that extends in front of the actual charge. As one might expect, the value of ERA is that it disrupts the jet before it has had a chance to reach its optimum form, but the angled strike is needed to actually deflect part of the jet away. Otherwise, it still strikes with only slightly reduced force. The greatest advantage of the HEAT round is that the actual velocity of the round is completely irrelevant, as all penetration is caused by the warhead (this is why it’s used on most missiles). It’s also more effective against RHA than kinetic penetrators. As a rule of thumb, a tank’s HEAT round can generally penetrate 4-7 times the warhead’s diameter in RHA, depending on the liner and armor struck. The main weakness is that modern armor composites are more resistant to HEAT, do in no small part to the much higher melting point compared to steel.
A cousin of the HEAT warhead is the EFP (Explosively Formed Projectile). This uses a similar concept, but has a shallow dish instead of the conical liner. This explosive deforms this into a solid slug (rather than a jet) with a velocity of about 2000 m/s. Though this is nowhere near as effective as a HEAT warhead, the slug is fired downward as the round flies above the target, thus striking the thin top armor. Penetration is only about equal to the warhead’s diameter, but that’s still more than enough for most tanks. Examples of this kind of warhead are the Swedish Bill and US TOW-2B anti-tank missiles, and the US STAFF tank round. This kind of warhead is also only marginally by ERA due to the angle and method of attack, making it doubly dangerous.
A fourth type of round, and one that is both little known and increasingly uncommon is the HESH (High Explosive Squash Head) or HEP (High Explosive Plastique) round. This round has a thin case that spreads out an explosive filler on impact. As this filler detonates against the armor, it sends shockwaves through, which breaks fragments off of the interior of the armor and sends them flying around inside to cause damage. This round is especially effective against thinner armor and bunkers, but is of only limited use against modern tanks.
WEAPONS
Naturally, the primary weapon of a tank is a big gun, though it will always have several other systems to back that up and provide protection against threats that a gun would be wasted on. We will look into all of these.
To start with, the primary firepower of a tank, once again, comes from it’s main gun. These will usually be smoothebore guns, as those are far better for firing most current anti-tank rounds. Rifled guns would have better range, but Sabot, HEAT, and EFP rounds would be much more difficult to use effectively, and only other types of rounds would have the range advantage. In modern tanks, the bore diameter is usually going to be a 105 or 120mm (Western), or 125mm (Soviet Bloc). This effectively covers the armament of most tanks that have entered service in the last 35 years. Generally speaking, the larger the gun, the greater the range and penetration. However, there are limits, particularly to the size of a weapon. While some players like to put them on, a 155mm tank cannon is huge, and will be bigger than most artillery guns. As one might expect, the tank will have to be massive indeed to use it effectively, and would suffer significantly in mobility. On the other hand, a 135mm or 140mm gun is much smaller, but still bigger than current weapons, and much more doable (in fact, has been done). One can also increase effectiveness by increasing barrel length. The use of a 25% longer gun on the Leopard 2 (55 cal instead of 44 cal) has dramatically improved performance, and keeps the tank as a viable unit without increasing weight so much. Another thing to note is that these still have limited range, and strikes at maximum range will be difficult to achieve, as well as likely to fail to penetrate (when sabots are used). Now, 120mm guns have been known to take out enemy units at over 5 km. However, the actual effective range is closer 3-4 km. Much further than that, and the round becomes difficult to control, and is far less likely to penetrate modern armor upon impact. Now, this can be increased with larger guns, but claiming that you can take out any known tank at over 10km is a bit beyond acceptable limits, even for the big guns. Another thing to consider with the main gun is that a tank will usually have some reason for growth. The M48 was upgunned from 90 to 105mm, and there are now versions of the M60 with 120mm guns instead of 105. Likewise, the Leopard 2 has been tested with a 140mm weapon replacing its 120mm gun. So remember, you won’t necessarily be stuck with the gun you initially use.
While the main gun is the star of the show, there are a slew of secondary weapons that a tank must have to fight effectively. One of the first things to note here is something that virtually all tanks have, and that is a coaxial weapon. This means that it’s alongside the main gun, and moves with it, pointing wherever the main gun points. On most tanks, this is going to be a 7.62mm machine gun, but some like the AMX-30 can have up to a 20 or 30mm cannon instead. In addition to that weapon, there’s often an anti-aircraft machine gun (for helicopters). This is usually a heavier 12.7mm (.50 cal) machine gun, though a 7.62mm weapon is not unheard of. In addition to this, most tanks have banks of smoke grenade launchers on the turret to help counter some attacks, though a number Soviet designs forgo this as they can dump diesel fuel into the engine exhaust to achieve the same smokescreen effect. While that is the extent of what can be found on most vehicles, some will have an additional machine gun operated by the loader or another crew member, and the Israeli Merkava an Sabra tanks have 60mm mortars. However, when mixing weapons is is essential that one keep in mind that there’s limited internal space, and too many weapons will mean that there’s less ammunition for each one.
FEATURES
While layout for most tanks is similar, many incorporate unique features that enhance, or in some cases, inhibit, performance.
One feature to consider is size (and weight, which is obviously related). Soviet tanks are much smaller and lighter than their western counterparts, and this does mean that they present a much smaller target, making them more difficult to see and hit. However, this can be extremely bad. Because of the smaller size, these tanks have about half of the internal space, meaning many features are left out. Among these is protected racks for the ammunition, which is stored in the open where it’s very likely to be detonated if the armor’s penetrated. Another major disadvantage is that a smaller internal space makes it much more likely that a penetrator or spalling fragment will hit something critical, thus knocking out, or at least significantly degrading the performance of the tank. In addition, these units feature autoloader, which is less effective than a human loader in most cases. The main reason is that the space that would be taken up by a fourth crewman is needed for other things. All this means that Soviet tanks tend to be deathtraps when hit, and harder to maintain in the field (less people to help) than western ones. Western tanks, on the other hand, are much larger and heavier, and that means that there’s much more space, which can be used to house ammunition in blast-resistant bustles with blowout panels, which are used by most. What those do is reduce the chance of an ammunition explosion, and in the event of one happening, they vent the blast out of the tank, leaving the interior relatively intact. This means that the tank will be salvageable. Naturally, western tanks, though easier to hit, are much more likely to survive a hit. Something to think about. The main disadvantage with them is the high weight. Western tanks are heavy, and that means that they’re a pain to move around and deploy.
Another feature, and one that’s much more unique, is that of the Israeli Merkava tank. This tank, rather than having it in the rear like most, actually has the engine in the front of the vehicle, where it not only is better protected, but itself provides additional protection for the more critical components, like crew and ammunition. In addition, the tank features a rear compartment that can be used to store provisions, additional ammunition, or even a squad of infantry (for urban combat). Occasionally, this could also be used to protect the crew of a disabled tank after they evacuated. The main drawback is more constricted engine space, which limits the size and power.
Another very unique tank is the Swedish Stridsvagn 105 (aka S-Tank). This vehicle, though designated a tank, is probably better described as an assault gun. The reason is that the main gun is completely fixed. This is something that’s excessively rare, as even WWII tank destroyers had limited traverse. The tank aims the gun by turning, and adjusting the suspension for elevation. The benefit is a significant decrease in weight and cost, as well as a much better suspension than many comparable units. The down side, obviously, is that it’s much more limited in engagement capability than other tanks.
Now that we’ve looked into some current features, lets look at a few from the past that didn’t exactly pan out. The most notable of these is multiple turrets, which was used on several Soviet heavy tanks in the 1930s. These tanks had a main gun (usually 76.2mm) and a few smaller guns (MGs and 45mm) on smaller turrets. The first, and most obvious, problem is that, in order to give the main gun full traverse, the turret had to be tall, which made for a significantly higher profile. Another problem was, as space had to be saved for the other turrets, all of these were very small and cramped. Yet another serious problem was the vulnerability of the secondary turrets, which were much less armored, but still susceptible to ammunition explosions and the like. Because of this, the idea of secondary turrets was generally left behind.
Now there are some that have a secondary turret on top of the main turret, but it suffers from most of the same problems. It increases profile, is much less protected by simple nature, and is prone to ammunition explosions, which stand a good chance of damaging the interior of the tank proper, even if the turret is fully automated. And in the case of the occasional attempt to use a Phalanx ship-based system, they should just be ignored. The Phalanx is too big to be used by a tank.
INTO THE FUTURE
Naturally, as NS has no fixed timeline, there are many that will like to use slightly, or even extremely futuristic equipment to make their tank work better. Things like ETC guns (aka rail guns) and advanced armor composites are popular. However, one must still recognize the limitations of these add-ons.
An ETC (electro-thermal chemical) gun is a forerunner to the more powerful ET (electro-thermal) gun. The value of the ETC is that it doesn’t rely entirely on the electromagnetic acceleration to propel the round, and thus requires much less power. The benefit of the gun lies in the significantly higher muzzle velocities that can be achieved, and the subsequent increase in the penetration capabilities of rounds fired from it. However, the gun has several weaknesses. For one thing, the ETC gun requires a great deal of power, much more than most tanks can generate, to be effective. Additionally, ETC guns are larger than traditional guns with the same bore diameter, and they’re also much more expensive. The final weakness is that ETC guns are more prone to damage, with delicate electronics and objects that can be thrown loose being in the barrel. This means that there are several notable limitations to ETC guns. The first is size. No, you will not see a 140mm ETC gun on a 50 ton tank, nor will you see a 120mm version on a light tank-the gun would be too bulky and require too much power to operate effectively. Another is cost, you will easily be adding several hundred thousand dollars, if not a few million, to the cost of a unit by putting in an ETC gun and the required systems. Additionally, there is the susceptibility to damage. ETC guns will not work well on anything that’s airdropped, as the shock upon landing will likely be too great. Likewise, an object striking the gun could easily disrupt it enough to significantly degrade performance. Still, with unrivaled penetration, these can be quite useful.
The other extremely common thing is improved armor. Now, this is perfectly fine as long as a few things are remembered. First, the same rules that apply to modern armor protection (with sides and rear being so much less) will still be there. Also, the increase won’t be that great. In other words, you might get a 10-25% increase without too much difficulty, but a single advance is not going to double the effectiveness, so near future tanks should not be there with well over 2000mm of ballistic protection. That would require you to be decades into the future, at least. Additionally, the armor can’t be perfect. No matter how good it is, it has to be really far in the future to be completely immune to current weapons. And again, new armor composites will often be very expensive, and will jack up the price of the tank considerably.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
For starters, one can't design an ubertank (or any other unit for that matter) that will do everything better than any unit around. With realistic design limitations, there will always be several things that must be sacrificed. If you want a bigger gun and better armor, you can expect it to be lacking in speed and strategic mobility. Likewise, if you want to increase speed or strategic mobility, you're going to have to drop some weight in the form of armor and firepower. If you want a turbine engine rather than a diesel, you will have to make deal with the greater fuel consumption. If you want all the best systems, you'll have to be prepared for a very steep price. If you want a smaller profile, you will have to make do with less internal space. A tank's design, like that of any other type of unit, is a series of compromises.
So, what's the best combination? Well, that's entirely based on your requirments. Different nations need different features based on geographical features and how they intend to use them (tactics, deployment, etc). Israel, for example, designs their tanks for maximum survivability and defensive engagements. As such, Israeli tanks are quite slow, but powerful and well-armored. The Soviet Union places emphasis on low cost, weight, and profile. As such, Soviet units are smaller and lighter, but far less sophisticated and survivable than western units. The UK, again, is geared toward defensive engagements, so their tanks are very slow, but exceptionally well armed and armored. Nations with significant mountainous, marshland, or jungle regions will make heavy use of light tanks. Greek trials favored the Leopard 2 primarily for its deep fording capability, and so on. The variety of tanks stems from the variety of requirements, so be sure to fit your tank to your requirements, and at the same time, try to give it something that its contemporaries lack. Selling points are always good.
Now that you’ve decided on the features that your tank will have, the general layout, and the general size and tech level, how do you figure out how much it should cost? Well, for starters, you should find the tank(s) that it’s most based on, and find out how much those will cost. That should be your base. Now, after that, you will want to look into what additional features you put in. Did you improve electronics and defensive systems? How about armor and firepower? And the engine (top speed)? Did you increase size and weight? After answering these, it goes entirely to guesswork, but on average, a new unit will have at least 1.5 times the cost of the one it’s replacing, and more if new technologies (ETC, new armor, etc) are added. Also, consider how much further you are into the future. If a tank costs $4 million today, it’ll be a bit higher than that 50 years from now.
NOT QUITE THE END
I’ve decided to post this now, but there’s much more that I will add later, including price and armor protection for a number of tanks. Until then, thanks for reading this (assuming you didn’t just skip down to here :wink: ), and good luck.
This has been another informative post by Clan Smoke Jaguar
As can be expected from a game like this, there is a significant tendency for players to tinker around and design their own original units. However, something many such players fail to realize is what kind of limitations there are on such units. As such, this post is here to give some information on the capabilities and limitations of armored vehicles, which pertains both to real and original designs. It's intended to help designers by showing what can and can't be done; and sellers and buyers by showing some advantages and deficiencies that are not found in basic statistics.
ARMOR
With that out of the way, I think that we should start with a look at one of the most important features of a tank: armor. Tank armor has evolved quite a bit since they were first employed in WWI, as better materials became available and protection requirements increased to keep up with evolving antitank weapons. Though the basic steel armor from WWI and WWII can still be found on many tank designs still in service, it has shifted to layers of steel and composites in most modern units.
Despite the better materials used, steel armor is still used as the base for measuring protection, in the form of RHA. Basically, 14mm of armor protection means that the protection is equivalent to a plate of rolled homogenous steel that's 14mm thick. The actual armor could be much thicker or much thinner, depending on the materials used. However, things do get complicated as the two different types of tank-killing rounds, Sabot and HEAT, are affected differently by other materials. As such, separate values are required for both. As composite armors were designed primarily against HEAT warheads, it's not surprising that they're more effective against them. The armor on the M1 for example, has 800mm of protection against Sabots, but an impressive 1300mm of protection against HEAT. A modern or near-future main battle tank will usually have in the range of 400-1000mm of ballistic (Sabot) protection, and 600-1700mm of HEAT protection, with the difference between the two varying according to the amount of armor and the materials used.
Now, for armor design. This is one of the most common areas for someone to slip up, as many people refuse to accept just how this goes. So here, we will look at features and limitations for armor. Pay attention.
One of the most significant advances in armor in WWII was the idea of sloping it, which would often cause rounds to bounce off rather than penetrate. Since WWII, armor slope has increased significantly, from 45-60 degrees to 65-80, which means that rounds are increasingly likely to be deflected, unless they have sufficient energy, which sabot rounds often do. Another effect from sloping is increasing the thickness of armor that must be penetrated without increasing the armor itself. However, as is quite obvious, only the front armor can be really well sloped. Side and rear armor, because of limitations on size and space, are never very well sloped, which greatly reduces protection. In addition to this, those same limitations drop the amount of armor that can actually be put there, so side and rear armor are not only less sloped, but thinner than frontal armor. Now, many players thing that dropping the side armor by 25%, and the rear to 50% of the front is sufficient. This is not true. A tank with 450mm of frontal armor protection will likely have less than 150mm of side armor, and even less for rear. By WWII, even without sloped armor, side protection was often only 1/2 that of frontal protection. With modern armor, side armor would only be 20-30% as good as the front armor, tops. The fact is, most tanks are vulnerable to just about any infantry-fired weapon if they're not engaged head-on.
Another advance in armor design was first employed in the late-1960s, and this was layered composite armor. Steel armor, while not bad, is actually relatively soft and easy to penetrate. While this can be hardened, there are limitations (it's more brittle and likely to fragment), and it's still not as good as many other materials used today. Originally, tanks would use just steel, which was later replaced by a layer hardened steel over one of RHS. With this, the hardened steel would protect better against penetrating rounds, and the softer RHA would stop the fragments. HEAT warheads changed this, as they could easily blow through both types of steel. To defend against HEAT, newer materials were developed, which were harder than steel, and more resistant to HEAT warheads, though many vehicles still use a layer of RHA to protect against fragmentation. The new layered composites are used in most modern tanks, which have widely varying degrees of protection depending on the exact ratio and type of composite used.
Another form of defense against HEAT warheads was ERA (Explosive Reactive Armor). ERA is applied in blocks, comprised of two thin sheets of armor around an explosive charge. These blocks are then attached to the armor of the tank, with a small space between the bottom sheet and the tank's own armor. The idea here is that, when a HEAT round strikes the ERA plate, the charge detonates, which sends the first sheet flying into the warhead to help disrupt it. At the same time, the second sheet is pushed into the armor, which it bounces off of to provide a second buffer to disrupt the HEAT's jet even further. Now, the limitations of ERA are not very well known, but they are significant. For one thing, the angle of the strike is a major factor in determining the effectiveness of the pack. At optimum angles, over 75% of the HEAT warhead’s jet may be disrupted, and thus used up. However, this can be dropped to less than 10% when the attacking warhead strikes the armor at a perfect 90-degree angle. As such, missiles that fly a top attack profile, and air launched weapons, are much more effective against ERA than normal ground-launched weapons. Another weakness is that standard ERA has only extremely limited effectiveness against sabot rounds. While there is a heavier version for deflecting those, it is less effective against HEAT warheads and can actually cause some damage to the vehicle itself as the plate rebounds off the armor. ERA is also, naturally, a one-use defense. Once a pack is used up, that area is perfectly vulnerable to further attack. Finally, ERA produces lethal fragments, so dismounted infantry cannot effectively escort a unit equipped with ERA. That’s just suicidal.
ANTI-TANK ROUNDS
The next thing to look into is related to armor, and that’s the weapons that are designed to defeat it. There are two primary methods of beating armor: long-rod penetrators (sabots), and HEAT warheads. Virtually all modern anti-tank weapons use one of these. One thing to remember here is that, regardless of the type of round used, it must have greater penetration capability than the armor it strikes to take out the target. This means that, if a round with exactly 400mm of penetration strikes exactly 400mm of armor, there will often be no effect other than a hole in the armor, as there was no energy left to cause internal damage. There is a chance of fragmentation, but I wouldn’t be betting on it.
A sabot round has a sub-caliber projectile. In other words, the actual round has a smaller diameter than the gun that fires it. Generally, the actual penetrator is 1/3-1/4 the diameter of the gun (30-40mm for a 120mm gun). The penetrator is surrounded in the cartridge by a sabot, which keeps it centered as it travels through the barrel, amd peels off after exiting the breach (hence DS – Discarding Sabot). As it’s using the same propellant as a full-caliber round, the penetrator can achieve significant velocities in the range of 1650 m/s (over Mach 4). The penetrator, in order to maximize effect, is made of strong, heavy metal, usually either tungsten or depleted uranium. Of these, DU is significantly more effective, as it’s slightly harder. It also tends to have particles that flake off and ignite upon penetration, causing fires within the enemy tank-always a good thing. The problems with DU are that 1) it’s slightly radioactive, 2) the dust created when a round hits is extremely toxic, causing environmental problems as well as making the area hazardous to unprotected troops, and 3) it’s very difficult to work with safely. Tungsten, on the other hand, is much safer and cheaper, but less effective. The penetrator is very long and thin, with a lengh to diameter ratio of 15-20 to 1, and up to 30 to 1 in some rounds. This forces greater mass into a smaller focal point, greatly enhancing penetration. However, the higher the ratio, the more likely the penetrator is to break up on impact (greater relative stress) and thus become useless. The greatest weakness of long-rod penetrators is that, with modern sloping and composites, they must fly perfectly straight and strike the armor squarely, or run the risk of losing up to 80% of their penetration. Another is that the round’s effectiveness is based on its energy at impact, which means that the further away the target is, the less effective the round will be. This is why heavier ERA can be effective-it throws them off just slightly, but enough to dramatically reduce penetration. While this type of round is found primarily in tanks, there are a few missiles that use the same idea. The most notable of these is the US LOSAT (Line-of-Sight Anti-Tank) missile, which accelerates to extreme velocities to use a penetrating rod, rather than the traditional warhead, to engage the tank. Another important thing about these rounds is that they’re primarily fired from smoothbore guns, as the extreme velocities involved will wear out a rifled barrel very quickly.
The second primary type of round is the HEAT (High Explosive Anti-Tank) warhead. HEAT rounds use chemical, rather than kinetic, forces to achieve penetration. A HEAT warhead has an explosive charge packed around a metallic liner (usually copper or aluminum). When the round detonates, the liner is collapsed inward, then heated and compressed into a molten jet with a velocity in the range of 8000-9000 m/s (around Mach 25!). This stream is still solid, but behaves like a fluid due to the pressures involved, and uses a combination of heat and localized kinetic energy which deforms and pushes the armor aside, burning a hole. To allow the jet to achieve optimum form before striking the armor, the fuse is set at the end of a long probe that extends in front of the actual charge. As one might expect, the value of ERA is that it disrupts the jet before it has had a chance to reach its optimum form, but the angled strike is needed to actually deflect part of the jet away. Otherwise, it still strikes with only slightly reduced force. The greatest advantage of the HEAT round is that the actual velocity of the round is completely irrelevant, as all penetration is caused by the warhead (this is why it’s used on most missiles). It’s also more effective against RHA than kinetic penetrators. As a rule of thumb, a tank’s HEAT round can generally penetrate 4-7 times the warhead’s diameter in RHA, depending on the liner and armor struck. The main weakness is that modern armor composites are more resistant to HEAT, do in no small part to the much higher melting point compared to steel.
A cousin of the HEAT warhead is the EFP (Explosively Formed Projectile). This uses a similar concept, but has a shallow dish instead of the conical liner. This explosive deforms this into a solid slug (rather than a jet) with a velocity of about 2000 m/s. Though this is nowhere near as effective as a HEAT warhead, the slug is fired downward as the round flies above the target, thus striking the thin top armor. Penetration is only about equal to the warhead’s diameter, but that’s still more than enough for most tanks. Examples of this kind of warhead are the Swedish Bill and US TOW-2B anti-tank missiles, and the US STAFF tank round. This kind of warhead is also only marginally by ERA due to the angle and method of attack, making it doubly dangerous.
A fourth type of round, and one that is both little known and increasingly uncommon is the HESH (High Explosive Squash Head) or HEP (High Explosive Plastique) round. This round has a thin case that spreads out an explosive filler on impact. As this filler detonates against the armor, it sends shockwaves through, which breaks fragments off of the interior of the armor and sends them flying around inside to cause damage. This round is especially effective against thinner armor and bunkers, but is of only limited use against modern tanks.
WEAPONS
Naturally, the primary weapon of a tank is a big gun, though it will always have several other systems to back that up and provide protection against threats that a gun would be wasted on. We will look into all of these.
To start with, the primary firepower of a tank, once again, comes from it’s main gun. These will usually be smoothebore guns, as those are far better for firing most current anti-tank rounds. Rifled guns would have better range, but Sabot, HEAT, and EFP rounds would be much more difficult to use effectively, and only other types of rounds would have the range advantage. In modern tanks, the bore diameter is usually going to be a 105 or 120mm (Western), or 125mm (Soviet Bloc). This effectively covers the armament of most tanks that have entered service in the last 35 years. Generally speaking, the larger the gun, the greater the range and penetration. However, there are limits, particularly to the size of a weapon. While some players like to put them on, a 155mm tank cannon is huge, and will be bigger than most artillery guns. As one might expect, the tank will have to be massive indeed to use it effectively, and would suffer significantly in mobility. On the other hand, a 135mm or 140mm gun is much smaller, but still bigger than current weapons, and much more doable (in fact, has been done). One can also increase effectiveness by increasing barrel length. The use of a 25% longer gun on the Leopard 2 (55 cal instead of 44 cal) has dramatically improved performance, and keeps the tank as a viable unit without increasing weight so much. Another thing to note is that these still have limited range, and strikes at maximum range will be difficult to achieve, as well as likely to fail to penetrate (when sabots are used). Now, 120mm guns have been known to take out enemy units at over 5 km. However, the actual effective range is closer 3-4 km. Much further than that, and the round becomes difficult to control, and is far less likely to penetrate modern armor upon impact. Now, this can be increased with larger guns, but claiming that you can take out any known tank at over 10km is a bit beyond acceptable limits, even for the big guns. Another thing to consider with the main gun is that a tank will usually have some reason for growth. The M48 was upgunned from 90 to 105mm, and there are now versions of the M60 with 120mm guns instead of 105. Likewise, the Leopard 2 has been tested with a 140mm weapon replacing its 120mm gun. So remember, you won’t necessarily be stuck with the gun you initially use.
While the main gun is the star of the show, there are a slew of secondary weapons that a tank must have to fight effectively. One of the first things to note here is something that virtually all tanks have, and that is a coaxial weapon. This means that it’s alongside the main gun, and moves with it, pointing wherever the main gun points. On most tanks, this is going to be a 7.62mm machine gun, but some like the AMX-30 can have up to a 20 or 30mm cannon instead. In addition to that weapon, there’s often an anti-aircraft machine gun (for helicopters). This is usually a heavier 12.7mm (.50 cal) machine gun, though a 7.62mm weapon is not unheard of. In addition to this, most tanks have banks of smoke grenade launchers on the turret to help counter some attacks, though a number Soviet designs forgo this as they can dump diesel fuel into the engine exhaust to achieve the same smokescreen effect. While that is the extent of what can be found on most vehicles, some will have an additional machine gun operated by the loader or another crew member, and the Israeli Merkava an Sabra tanks have 60mm mortars. However, when mixing weapons is is essential that one keep in mind that there’s limited internal space, and too many weapons will mean that there’s less ammunition for each one.
FEATURES
While layout for most tanks is similar, many incorporate unique features that enhance, or in some cases, inhibit, performance.
One feature to consider is size (and weight, which is obviously related). Soviet tanks are much smaller and lighter than their western counterparts, and this does mean that they present a much smaller target, making them more difficult to see and hit. However, this can be extremely bad. Because of the smaller size, these tanks have about half of the internal space, meaning many features are left out. Among these is protected racks for the ammunition, which is stored in the open where it’s very likely to be detonated if the armor’s penetrated. Another major disadvantage is that a smaller internal space makes it much more likely that a penetrator or spalling fragment will hit something critical, thus knocking out, or at least significantly degrading the performance of the tank. In addition, these units feature autoloader, which is less effective than a human loader in most cases. The main reason is that the space that would be taken up by a fourth crewman is needed for other things. All this means that Soviet tanks tend to be deathtraps when hit, and harder to maintain in the field (less people to help) than western ones. Western tanks, on the other hand, are much larger and heavier, and that means that there’s much more space, which can be used to house ammunition in blast-resistant bustles with blowout panels, which are used by most. What those do is reduce the chance of an ammunition explosion, and in the event of one happening, they vent the blast out of the tank, leaving the interior relatively intact. This means that the tank will be salvageable. Naturally, western tanks, though easier to hit, are much more likely to survive a hit. Something to think about. The main disadvantage with them is the high weight. Western tanks are heavy, and that means that they’re a pain to move around and deploy.
Another feature, and one that’s much more unique, is that of the Israeli Merkava tank. This tank, rather than having it in the rear like most, actually has the engine in the front of the vehicle, where it not only is better protected, but itself provides additional protection for the more critical components, like crew and ammunition. In addition, the tank features a rear compartment that can be used to store provisions, additional ammunition, or even a squad of infantry (for urban combat). Occasionally, this could also be used to protect the crew of a disabled tank after they evacuated. The main drawback is more constricted engine space, which limits the size and power.
Another very unique tank is the Swedish Stridsvagn 105 (aka S-Tank). This vehicle, though designated a tank, is probably better described as an assault gun. The reason is that the main gun is completely fixed. This is something that’s excessively rare, as even WWII tank destroyers had limited traverse. The tank aims the gun by turning, and adjusting the suspension for elevation. The benefit is a significant decrease in weight and cost, as well as a much better suspension than many comparable units. The down side, obviously, is that it’s much more limited in engagement capability than other tanks.
Now that we’ve looked into some current features, lets look at a few from the past that didn’t exactly pan out. The most notable of these is multiple turrets, which was used on several Soviet heavy tanks in the 1930s. These tanks had a main gun (usually 76.2mm) and a few smaller guns (MGs and 45mm) on smaller turrets. The first, and most obvious, problem is that, in order to give the main gun full traverse, the turret had to be tall, which made for a significantly higher profile. Another problem was, as space had to be saved for the other turrets, all of these were very small and cramped. Yet another serious problem was the vulnerability of the secondary turrets, which were much less armored, but still susceptible to ammunition explosions and the like. Because of this, the idea of secondary turrets was generally left behind.
Now there are some that have a secondary turret on top of the main turret, but it suffers from most of the same problems. It increases profile, is much less protected by simple nature, and is prone to ammunition explosions, which stand a good chance of damaging the interior of the tank proper, even if the turret is fully automated. And in the case of the occasional attempt to use a Phalanx ship-based system, they should just be ignored. The Phalanx is too big to be used by a tank.
INTO THE FUTURE
Naturally, as NS has no fixed timeline, there are many that will like to use slightly, or even extremely futuristic equipment to make their tank work better. Things like ETC guns (aka rail guns) and advanced armor composites are popular. However, one must still recognize the limitations of these add-ons.
An ETC (electro-thermal chemical) gun is a forerunner to the more powerful ET (electro-thermal) gun. The value of the ETC is that it doesn’t rely entirely on the electromagnetic acceleration to propel the round, and thus requires much less power. The benefit of the gun lies in the significantly higher muzzle velocities that can be achieved, and the subsequent increase in the penetration capabilities of rounds fired from it. However, the gun has several weaknesses. For one thing, the ETC gun requires a great deal of power, much more than most tanks can generate, to be effective. Additionally, ETC guns are larger than traditional guns with the same bore diameter, and they’re also much more expensive. The final weakness is that ETC guns are more prone to damage, with delicate electronics and objects that can be thrown loose being in the barrel. This means that there are several notable limitations to ETC guns. The first is size. No, you will not see a 140mm ETC gun on a 50 ton tank, nor will you see a 120mm version on a light tank-the gun would be too bulky and require too much power to operate effectively. Another is cost, you will easily be adding several hundred thousand dollars, if not a few million, to the cost of a unit by putting in an ETC gun and the required systems. Additionally, there is the susceptibility to damage. ETC guns will not work well on anything that’s airdropped, as the shock upon landing will likely be too great. Likewise, an object striking the gun could easily disrupt it enough to significantly degrade performance. Still, with unrivaled penetration, these can be quite useful.
The other extremely common thing is improved armor. Now, this is perfectly fine as long as a few things are remembered. First, the same rules that apply to modern armor protection (with sides and rear being so much less) will still be there. Also, the increase won’t be that great. In other words, you might get a 10-25% increase without too much difficulty, but a single advance is not going to double the effectiveness, so near future tanks should not be there with well over 2000mm of ballistic protection. That would require you to be decades into the future, at least. Additionally, the armor can’t be perfect. No matter how good it is, it has to be really far in the future to be completely immune to current weapons. And again, new armor composites will often be very expensive, and will jack up the price of the tank considerably.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
For starters, one can't design an ubertank (or any other unit for that matter) that will do everything better than any unit around. With realistic design limitations, there will always be several things that must be sacrificed. If you want a bigger gun and better armor, you can expect it to be lacking in speed and strategic mobility. Likewise, if you want to increase speed or strategic mobility, you're going to have to drop some weight in the form of armor and firepower. If you want a turbine engine rather than a diesel, you will have to make deal with the greater fuel consumption. If you want all the best systems, you'll have to be prepared for a very steep price. If you want a smaller profile, you will have to make do with less internal space. A tank's design, like that of any other type of unit, is a series of compromises.
So, what's the best combination? Well, that's entirely based on your requirments. Different nations need different features based on geographical features and how they intend to use them (tactics, deployment, etc). Israel, for example, designs their tanks for maximum survivability and defensive engagements. As such, Israeli tanks are quite slow, but powerful and well-armored. The Soviet Union places emphasis on low cost, weight, and profile. As such, Soviet units are smaller and lighter, but far less sophisticated and survivable than western units. The UK, again, is geared toward defensive engagements, so their tanks are very slow, but exceptionally well armed and armored. Nations with significant mountainous, marshland, or jungle regions will make heavy use of light tanks. Greek trials favored the Leopard 2 primarily for its deep fording capability, and so on. The variety of tanks stems from the variety of requirements, so be sure to fit your tank to your requirements, and at the same time, try to give it something that its contemporaries lack. Selling points are always good.
Now that you’ve decided on the features that your tank will have, the general layout, and the general size and tech level, how do you figure out how much it should cost? Well, for starters, you should find the tank(s) that it’s most based on, and find out how much those will cost. That should be your base. Now, after that, you will want to look into what additional features you put in. Did you improve electronics and defensive systems? How about armor and firepower? And the engine (top speed)? Did you increase size and weight? After answering these, it goes entirely to guesswork, but on average, a new unit will have at least 1.5 times the cost of the one it’s replacing, and more if new technologies (ETC, new armor, etc) are added. Also, consider how much further you are into the future. If a tank costs $4 million today, it’ll be a bit higher than that 50 years from now.
NOT QUITE THE END
I’ve decided to post this now, but there’s much more that I will add later, including price and armor protection for a number of tanks. Until then, thanks for reading this (assuming you didn’t just skip down to here :wink: ), and good luck.
This has been another informative post by Clan Smoke Jaguar